KeySwitch Ignition

I have some problems turning the power on, and after some troubleshooting everything point against the key switch.
Some times when I turn the power on nothing happens (only signal left and right light working) and and then suddenly has everything power...
So as I see it the key switch is unstable...

I have order new one, but in the meantime was I thinking bypass the key switch and just take the power on the battery when I need to....

My questions is how to-do it, my plan is to bypass inside the 6 cable contactor inside the front light.
The electrical wiring are not telling what cable belongs to each other, it looks like it two source cables (positive ) and these two supply all the cables out from the switch?
If I`m correct witch shall be longs to each "source" cables? And what is the extra cables who goes outside the 6 cable plug?

It looks like you are using a 750/4 wiring diagram. Same as mine. or maybe similar as my model is Canadian
in your picture the two white wires are power from the battery. The single white wire from the fuse splits in 2 inside the harness under the gas tank and becomes 2 white wires at the large connector. The separate brown wire comes from the regulator rectifier and without this the battery will overcharge. - I think but could be wrong

At the bottom of your wiring diagram you should see a table like this


This diagram can be used to check the ignition switch by looking for resistance (ohms) as indicated

The diagram also shows what needs to be connected at the large connector in order to get the bike to run.

If your diagram is the same as the one above then at the large connector you need to connect white and yellow and brown ( or possibly just white and yellow) to get live ignition. If you make the other connections indicated you add lights.

I had to replace my ignition switch a few years ago and it was plug and play easy

God luck

JR wrote: It looks like you are using a 750/4 wiring diagram. Same as mine. or maybe similar as my model is Canadian
in your picture the two white wires are power from the battery. The single white wire from the fuse splits in 2 inside the harness under the gas tank and becomes 2 white wires at the large connector. The separate brown wire comes from the regulator rectifier and without this the battery will overcharge. - I think but could be wrong

At the bottom of your wiring diagram you should see a table like this

This diagram can be used to check the ignition switch by looking for resistance (ohms) as indicated

The diagram also shows what needs to be connected at the large connector in order to get the bike to run.

If your diagram is the same as the one above then at the large connector you need to connect white and yellow and brown ( or possibly just white and yellow) to get live ignition. If you make the other connections indicated you add lights.

I had to replace my ignition switch a few years ago and it was plug and play easy

God luck

Thank you, these was really good information !
Looks like I have found a way to be able to use the key switch in the meanwhile until I get the new one.