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So yesterday I had a chance to go a long ride with a buddy of mine. Well all day when it came to starting the bike I turn the key to the on position and there when be not power to the dash lights or the ignition. If I wiggle key or mess with the fuse one would get it to work. Well on the way home the bike compelety died on me and would not start up again. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I did check the fuse and they all were good. Thinking possibly the ignition switch.

Before changing things around with my electrical system, my bike developed a similar problem more than once. The 30 amp main fuse clip became loose inside the base of the fuse box where connected to the white hot wire. It would intermittently cut the connection and/or blow the fuse, producing heat which melted the plastic where the clip passed through from the bottom. I only figured that out by taking the fuse box off the bike and removing off the plastic cover from the back to access the connections inside. A hammer and punch fixed the bad connection which worked well enough until I replaced that fuse box with a new one.
Another time it was a bad stator, which was likely caused by a poor connection at of one of the three yellow wires. Then again it had a bad rotor magnet, and another time it was the voltage regulator. There were so many issues I can't remember which was which, and what caused what, and when.
All that's over with now, thank goodness.

Good luck solving your electrical problem. There are a few knowledgeable members here that should have a suggestion or two. You may also find helpful information by doing a search of various electrical issues and solutions in the forum archives.

To tailgate on Daveo's line of thinking on the fuse, I've seen corroded/oxidized fuse holders create resistance and heat. When it got hot it failed, when it cooled off it would work again. The problem would come and go which made it a real joy to chase.

well got a chance look at it. change the main fuse out with another and it works. so i going to look at the fuse box to see if there is a bad connection first. the whole charge system was replace over the winter along with the top end being rebuilt. also put in a dyna s ignition

I had to clean the 30 amp fuse holder myself this past summer, I took some 600 grit wet/dry paper and polished the contact surfaces.

If I have anymore problems I plan on replacing the fuse block with one that takes the newer blade fuses.

Glad you are up and running. The sandpaper will give you a good connection short term but could well be too aggressive for a long term (years) solution. If you take the thin plating off of it, it will corrode much faster. I use De-Oxit and buff it with a wash rag. I know a lot of guys that have just moved to blades.

Yeah I was thing about going to the blade style fuses awhile back. if the fuse block looks melted I probably switch it out. cheaper to do that then to get a nos block. besides my plastic cover is broke on current fuse block, have that and a oil leak to chase down. been trying to figure it out for weeks, only does I when I rode for awhile and let the bike sit

I'm with you, if you don't get it to a point you can ride it, most lose interest. For oil leaks on an 1100, check the shifter shaft at the seal where it enters the engine case. Notorious for leaking. Both of mine leak there.

I slowly trying to restore this bike, plan on keeping it . need to start getting extra parts when i can because there becoming harder to find now that i had it for awhile. didnt realize how hard it was to find a right hand cowl cover. haha