KZ650 C2 (Custom) Purchase

After a number of years without a KZ in my garage, I just picked up a somewhat-tired 78 KZ650 Custom -- my favorite year and sub-model. It needs a number of things addressed in order to make it roadworthy, but the most pressing seem to be electrical. Charged up the battery, horn blows, lights illuminate but when I press the start button, I get -- nothing. It doesn't seem to be drawing power - as the headlight doesn't dim when I hit the start button.
I'm starting with the easy stuff so the first order of business are the right and left handlebar switches. I've looked high and low and these switches -- or their aftermarket equivalents- are not made any longer.

So I am looking for alternative parts that will plug in, use the same wire colors and essentially replace the original switches with something that appears period correct and functions the same. I've found that KZ1000 switches from the same year/period look like they may work. The KZ1000 right hand switch appears to be very close, but no one seems to sell a repro left hand switch with the unique red "Hazard" push-pull switch that is original to 78 KZ650s.

Any suggestions as to a switch for the left hand side that has all the same functions as the original?

I'll be replacing the starter solenoid as well as the neutral safety switch because they are cheap and available.

Any other suggestions for quick and dirty fixes?

TIA

You can disassemble the actual switch and clean up the internals/contacts if you are so inclined. I've done it several times. Great care needs to be taken when doing so as there are springs that load little ball bearings in a couple of spots. Remove the switch assembly from the bike, get it on the bench on a cloth like a dish towel so the little parts don't 'run away'.

Are you sure the switches are the problem? Might be something as simple as a bad fuse or loose ground.

TexasKZ wrote: Are you sure the switches are the problem? Might be something as simple as a bad fuse or loose ground.

I agree with TexasKZ. You should have a manual or you are throwing darts in the dark. Kawasaki manuals can easily be obtained on eBay. They are much better than the Clymers or others. Either manual should have a 'does not start' trouble shooting guide. That would be the right place to start IMO.

Thanks. All very good advice.

Darts in the dark.

No manual, factory or otherwise. Mine went with my last KZ650 when it was sold and although the fella who sold me this bike had agreed to give me his, I did not get one with the bike. There were a couple of parts that were missing at delivery, so hopefully, he will get all to me at some point.

The switches and starter solenoid would be replaced in any case. Again, decades of weather exposure can't have helped.

I'll be looking for a factory manual so that I can accurately track down voltage and amperage values.

Thanks again for the guidance.

Start with checking the starter solenoid. With my kz550, the solenoid failed from bad solder joints holding the "switch" wires in. It's not super likely the handlebar switches are bad unless it's spent a lot of time outside or in the rain.

Iirc when holding the start button you should be getting 12V on the connector that goes to the solenoid. If you don't have a multimeter it's going to be your best friend here so pick one up.

I bet your clutch lever switch is not working you must have the clutch in to use electric start if it's not working take the tank off follow the wires to were they plug in and jump the 2 wires this will allow the bike to start without the clutch if that does not work check to see if kill switch on the handlebar is working it will not turn over if it's in the off position or broken internally seen it many times plastic switch cracks inside then does not work properly I would check the kill switch by kicking the bike over with a plug out and see if you have spark assuming your ignishion system is working

I would check the starter solenoid to make sure it's getting voltage & working.

"I bet your clutch lever switch is not working "

Bingo. Haven't jumpered it yet, but the PO converted the bike to rearsets. Since part of the interlock depends on shifter position, I'm betting that is the culprit.

Thanks!

The clutch switch doesn't care about the shifter or what gear you're in.