Car style ignition

Would anyone have an idea what wires I need in order to wire up a car style ignition on my 79kz1000? The new ig switch has 3 connections, ignition, battery, and solenoid. It's has 3positions, off acc and start.

Is there a reason for doing this and will it be able to handle the rain & water?
If you're doing a simplified wiring project, below is a topic with a number of wiring diagrams by loudhvx.
The ignition switch in the 1000-E2 diagram on pg 13 seems to be wired the way you want to do it.

bare bones for mattylight. see pages 11-21.
some of the wiring diagrams are no longer there (pgs. 1-10). But from pg 11-on many are still available.

Are you planning on a fully computer controlled, coil on plug system? If so, that is also going to require the addition of a bunch of sensors so that the computer can make decisions about timing. Also, I believe most of the new systems integrate fuel and ignition controls, which will likely require a fuel injection system that will communicate with whatever controller you have in mind.

Is there a compelling reason to add so much complication and expense to an old motorcycle?

I'm guessing he just wants to install an automotive ignition switch only.

So you want to fit an ignition barrel that activates the starter motor via twisting the key rather than pressing the bar mounted button ?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationWhy?
Steve

zed1015 wrote: So you want to fit an ignition barrel that activates the starter motor via twisting the key rather than pressing the bar mounted button ?

Well, if that is the case, it should be a fairly simple matter of routing the button wires to the new switch, right?

Shouldn't the new switch have a run or on position? Also, if he wants to keep full functionality, the new switch will need to have four positions, ACC, OFF(LOCK), ON, START.

I think he wants it because they're cheap and available at any parts store. They work ok, but are definitely not as nice as an original switch. They are bulky and kinda ugly.

It's easy to wire up. He should probably retain the start button as is so he can operate the throttle as necessary during start-up.

I wire them so the ignition and everything else but the headlights are on ACC terminal and the headlights are on the IGN terminal. That way, you can operate the bike with or without headlights by just turning the key one position over. ACC position for running without headlights. RUN/ON position for running with headlights. (For bikes that don't have an on/off switch for the headlights.)

TexasKZ wrote:

zed1015 wrote: So you want to fit an ignition barrel that activates the starter motor via twisting the key rather than pressing the bar mounted button ?

Well, if that is the case, it should be a fairly simple matter of routing the button wires to the new switch, right?

Don't know about USA but in the UK the stock ign switch also has a Park position activated by turning the key anti clockwise to power the rear light and then the key can be removed.
Sounds like a lot of work and wire re-routing with extra switches elsewhere just to save a few quid on an ign barrel.
False economy.