GPZ550 M-Unit wiring: Reg/Rec and Ignition?

hi all. I have a 1983 KZ550H1 aka ZX550 aka GPZ550

I'm drawing out the wiring diagram to add the M-Unit to it.
The bike came sort of running but the wiring harness was a mess of splice connectors and sparking when i tried to ride it. The bike was stripped and had a tank full of rust, so I'm bringing it back to life as a street fighter. Hoping to run it on the street and at the track.
I'm not great with electricals, but this is a learning opportunity for me.

I'm drawing out the wiring diagram with the M-unit. I got this one as a good deal.
I'm struggling with wiring the regulator/Rectifier and the ignition box.
here's the diagram so far.

also here's what I believe is the correct wiring diagram for my bike.

That doesn't look right. Regardless of how the M unit functions, you should not have a fuse between the battery and the starter-solenoid's main power connection.

Also, the brown wire on the reg/rec is not meant to have anything to do with the kickstand switch. While they may both be connected to the brown wire, it is only because the brown wire is a common power source (switched power).
That brown wire on the regulator must get 12v battery voltage when the bike is running in order for the regulator to regulate. It uses the brown wire to sense the battery voltage. Do not leave it unconnected as that can have disastrous results. Just make sure the brown wire gets 12v whenever the bike is turned on.

As a side note, there is no 1983 Kz550H1. It would either be a 1982 Kz550H1 or 1983 Kz550H2. If your front fairing has black and silver stripes, and the side covers have a large black area, then it's a 1983 H2. The marketing name is commonly known as a Gpz550, but other bikes are also called that. A Zx550A is also a Gpz550, but is not the same thing as a Kz550H. They are different bikes. If you don't have any original bodywork, maybe the vin will let you know what you have. They build a particular year's model starting late in the previous year, so the build date is not exactly the best way to tell what model year your bike is.

so it's built in 1982, the VIN states KZ550H1 but the model year is registered as 1983.

I've got a shot of the wiring harness redo as best I can. Right now I just want to get the bike to run, and I can't really figure out what all the wires do. I've got some help, but I haven't been able to run through it with them. Mind taking a look?

I'm really bad at this, obviously. I've done plenty of electrical farkles but never a full harness.

I can't really help you with the M unit. It would be very simple point -to-point wiring without the M-unit. The M-unit adds another layer of complexity. It's a "black-box" with no way to intuitively know how it functions.

It appears you are only saving yourself two wires on the "m button". The signal switch is still missing the main feed, or at least it's not shown.

I realize this is an early diagram to get it running, but there is some stuff missing. I would try to include all of it before you start wiring because it's more work to add wires later rather than planning it all at once. I think you will want at least some of these:
Kill switch.
Headlight Hi/Lo switch.
Headlight.
Rear brake switch.
Brake light.
Turn signal switch feed.
Turn signals.

On the starter solenoid, you should identify which connections go to the coil and which go to the contacts, to avoid confusion.

And I can't really read what you wrote about the brown wire on the regulator. That wire needs to be connected to the same power that goes to the ignition so that it has battery voltage on it whenever the bike is running.

so the M button lets you run one wire to the handlebars, and then you run the wires our to the kill switch (digital signal one button on/off) hi/lo for the headlights, turn signals, etc.

it's handy, but the MUnit essentially acts as an ECU. I think this is where my own confusion is coming from as I can't reconcile the stock wiring diagram with the M unit diagram, namely how to wire up the ignition coils, rectifier regulator, Ignition box. For that to work I'd need to know not just what wire goes where, but what each wire is doing specifically out of the ignition box, and out of the r/r

you cleared up the brown wire from the r/r for me. That makes sense to me and should be easy to run to the switched (AUX) power wire and tap into it.

The MUnit is only an all in one wire handle bar control switches/ignition switch collector unit
It needs no ignition switch key but an RFID chip for the MLock to power on the system and electric main power circuit.
Ignition system, Regulator / Rectifier, Kill switch, etc. are independent electric circuits from the MUnit

Really neat device although I feel its a tad much for the 300$ asking price. I've looked at a few videos on youtube of individuals who used it.

The RFid would be fine, but all you really need it to do is apply power. All that other stuff seems redundant and complex for no reason.

I hope it's not a security measure. There is no easy way to electrically secure a motorcycle since anyone with know-how can easily hot wire it. A physical steering lock is better, but even that is pretty easy to defeat.