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Good AGM battery brand & source
- martin_csr
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Yuasa seems to be the obvious choice, I guess. Are there any other brands to consider? Thanks.
ps: thumbs down on the scorpion agm. it was well maintained & lasted exactly 2 yrs. Because of the reviews I saw at the time from various sources & it being an agm, I was expecting about 5 yrs of service from it & was hoping for at least 3 yrs of use. nope.
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- Scirocco
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You safe a lot of weight.
Lead/AGM = 4,9 kg
LiFe = 0,9 kg on my project bike
Have a better cold start and stronger spark.
Negativ, you have to pay nearly double price.
My 1975 Z 1 B 900 Project
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/605133...ears-deep-sleep-mode
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- martin_csr
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- Scirocco
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www.panther-batterien.de/panther-lithium-ionen.html
This is the brand i use in my bikes, (Hayabusa and Z1B 900)
My 1975 Z 1 B 900 Project
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/605133...ears-deep-sleep-mode
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- Nightdriver
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'82 1100 Specter
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- Nessism
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If your bike uses a 3 phase conventional charging system then upgrading the R/R to a SH775 is money well spent. They protect your stator from shunted current overheat damage. You can get a good used unit from ebay for less than $40 shipped. One of the best upgrades you can make.
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- Scirocco
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I have extra terminals on my LI battery
The best advantage is you can mounting the battery in any position you need, like upside down.
And for the winter time and worst case scenario a CTEC charger.
Charging the LiFe battery in 45 minutes to full capacity and not in 6 hours!!!
My 1975 Z 1 B 900 Project
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/605133...ears-deep-sleep-mode
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- daveo
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Nessism wrote: I don't know where they are made but I'm a big fan of Motobatt batteries. They have extra terminals so it's easy to add accessories or extra power/ground wires.
If your bike uses a 3 phase conventional charging system then upgrading the R/R to a SH775 is money well spent. They protect your stator from shunted current overheat damage. You can get a good used unit from ebay for less than $40 shipped. One of the best upgrades you can make.
+1 SH775 is money well spent
Two years ago, and still consistent 14.5 Volts...
Amazing!
Battery: Bikemaster Trugel MG20L-BS
1982 KZ1100-A2
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- martin_csr
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The stock original voltage regulator was working fine & tested fine, but I installed a good used reg-rec from a late model low mileage Ninja 500. I also have a Ctek US 0.8 smart charger & use a VC97 digital multimeter. I check the battery & charging system regularly and except for the battery, everything has always tested fine.
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- ThatGPzGuy
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Jim
North GA
2016 Yamaha FJR1300ES
1982 GPz750 R1
1974 Kawasaki H1
1976 Kawasaki KZ400
1979 Yamaha XS650 cafe'
2001 KZ1000P
2001 Yamaha YZ426
1981 Honda XR200 stroked in an '89 CR125 chassis
1965 Mustang
1967 Triumph GT6
1976 Bronco
"If you didn't build it, it's not really yours"
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- Nessism
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martin_csr wrote: I've actually considered installing a mosfet voltage regualtor & would probably do so if the bike was a 750E or 1000. that may not seem to make any sense, but it does to me for non-technical reasons. hee.
The stock original voltage regulator was working fine & tested fine, but I installed a good used reg-rec from a late model low mileage Ninja 500. I also have a Ctek US 0.8 smart charger & use a VC97 digital multimeter. I check the battery & charging system regularly and except for the battery, everything has always tested fine.
Martin, a SERIES type R/R is vastly superior to a shunting R/R because they protect your stator. There is tons of info all over the web about this subject so please take a little time and do some reading when you have some spare time. I'm not an electrical expert by any stretch, but I do know the tech is superior. It's not about the R/R living per say, it's about protecting the stator because it makes it run cooler.
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- daveo
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Nightdriver wrote: Don't you have to update the charging system to match teh newer Lithium batteries?
+1
Is the SH775 R/R a suitable upgrade for use with a Lithium Ion battery?
1982 KZ1100-A2
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