coil checking 1980 750 ltd twin

Hello again from Alabama.Been reading the forum when I can and learning a lot.Sounds like some top notch people out there in cybersaki world.An update,my
bike I'm piddlin with is a 1980 750 twin.Seems to be BS38 carbs that I have been trying to dial in. A couple of questions,My coil is a 2 wire coil,1 blue 1 yellow wire with red stripe.Can you tell me the correct way to check it? Also I found the shorty pipe baffles to have lost the wrapping around the metal baffle.I remember buying the shortys at our local Honda dealer and everything ran fine at the time.that was 6 years ago.Can I re wrap these ,or if not do you you know a good site to buy replacement baffles?

OLJOCLARK wrote: . . . 1980 750 twin. . . coil is a 2 wire coil,1 blue 1 yellow wire with red stripe.Can you tell me the correct way to check it? . . . .

Ideal way is with an Electrotester which measures strength of spark. Kawasaki dealer service department may have this tool available.

The typical owner test is an ohm check between the coil's primary terminals (where the small wires attach -- for resistance in the coil's primary winding) and between ends of the spark plug caps (the so-called "secondary loop" for resistance in the coil's secondary winding).



The simple ohm tests can likely show a direct short in the windings inside the coil, but usually won't show a short under load (as will the Electrotester).

If needed, a free downloadable KZ750 twin service manual is usually available online. Let us know if you need a link.

Good Fortune!

Thanks again Patton,So between the blue and yellow for Primary,and between blue or yellow to spark plug end?

Good Fortune!

Boy,it don't get much clearer than that .Thanks again.I'm sure a lot of other shadetrees fightin these 750's appreciate it too.Thanks for your time,Oljo

If your still listening,, I checked the coil out and got 4.1 on the primary and21.69 on the secondary with the plug caps still on.I seen this cat on youtube heat it up with a hair dryer while testing to see if it changes when it gets hot and did so and all stayed the same.What i'm experiencing is the bike cranks good ,a little time to warm up which changes the idle to faster as it warms up.Runs pretty good if you take it easy ,can hear some stuttering from both cylyders and if I hold it at about 35 to4000 rpms it will stumble un less I get in it or let off a little .I'm going to repack the baffles next to try to get it as close as it was when it was running good 6 tears ago.If you followed My other posts you know I haven't adjusted valves yet'The carbs have been over and over several times and has stock , I .think jets,125 main, 45 pilot.stock air box,and no leaks on either side of the carbs.I am going to try the valves,just covering all I can before taking any covers off.Great weather around here right now.Thanks again.Oljo

Another update for anyone keepin up.I took my baffles out of the shorty pipes.which was easy enough to do,One bolt and pull em out.The seam down the middle had split a little, just enough to see.No packing left at all.I used some fiberglass pipe insulation,put about a half inch wrap around em,taped with aluminum duct tape,the real stuff then wrapped galvanized tie wire around real tight and stuck em back in.I was able to get a little closer to dialing in my air fuel mix.It's running a little smoother and didn't stumble at all.Maybe i'm on to some thing.Dont know how long the repack will last.Will have to see as I'm not an everyday rider.Gonna be studying how to correctly set timing next