TOPIC:

I have read the coil mod directions but can anyone tell me why they would do such a thing. I mean what problem does this fix or what is the benefit.

Also can someone give me simple directions how to test my coils I have a multi meter but I am not sure how to or what setting to put it on.

The mod basically bypasses the old oxidized wires running through your old oxidized handlebar switch, and allows you to easily run new wires for th epower wiring to your coils. It only works if you have a battery though.

You and I have the same bike. The coil mod will help due to the age of the wire and connectors and the gauge of the wire (this is often overlooked). More current, more spark. I don't remember the correct test results on the coil check but I'll look later and post what that is.

Do you have the stock headlight or a halogen? If you have a halogen or are planning to add one I can show you a diagram on the relays to handle these mods. If you don't make the mods, the fuse block will probably melt.

Mine has an H4 halogen actually I just put in a brightwhite bulb. A 9003 is the same bulb, this could save you a few bucks:woohoo:

I kind of chickend out of the mod instead I took both coils off resoldered the connections cleaned all of the contacts and the connectors:silly: So far so good I'll be able to tell on the way to work tommorow if it made any difference.

Thanks for the help anf info

A few weeks back I measured voltage at the battery and got 12.3V and measured at the coils and got 11.8V. A difference of a half a volt. Not a big deal. Well what the heck, I decided to do the coil mod anyway as it only cost me about $10. Well I figure it was the best $10 I spent on the bike. Took me about an hour. After the mod I had the same V at both battery and coils. The bike runs much better at the lower rpm range - up to about 4,000rpm - and the plugs which were always a tad on the sooty side are now looking just right.
Going into this I never I figured I had an issue with the way the bike ran.

Post edited by: JR, at: 2006/07/09 22:11

Well something worked,although the plugs are still a tad on the sooty side the bike runs much smoother but I still get the spitting bac through carb 1 Aw well I guess after 27 years of someone on your back pushing you to the max you deserve to spit a bit!!

KZ RAGE,

I'd be very interested in seeing the diagram for the halogen headlight upgrade if you don't mind.

I have a 76 kz 900 .Are these mods the exact same for this model? I know the wireing is quite a bit differant in later years. I would like to do these mods.

On the head light mod all you have to do is use the headlight for the trigger and run the true 12 volts to the headlight wires. Roy

If you look at the coil mod diagram, there is a trigger. If you do a headlight using an automotive relay, you also will need a trigger. The trigger needs to be SWITCHED 12VDC from the ignition switch. Use any brown colored wire associated with the reserve lighting or turn signals. This is a SWITCHED 12VDC wire... splice into it for the trigger. You will turn on the key and it will close the relay. You will turn off the key and the relay will open. The problem with using the "headlight" as Roy suggested is that the power TO your headlight comes from the blue circuit which makes contact with the red/yellow and red/black lines in your your hi/lo beam switch... in other words, the blue and red/black touch in the switch, the power from the blue circuit goes through to the red/yellow wire and from there to the low beam via a couple connectors. Same is true for the red/black which powers the low beam I think (I might have the hi and lo beams' colors backwards...)... ANYWAY, if you were to pick off the blue wire for the trigger, it would work BUT you would have to run a long wire from the left switchgear or the connector area back to the relay which would be awkward. The blue wire generally comes from the RIGHT hand switchgear if you have an on/off type switch on that side. If there is no on/off where the bike's headlight is on all the time, I think it MIGHT come direct from the fuse area via the ignition switch.

My bike already had an H4 in it, why would you have to rewire from an incadesent to halogen in automotive you don't and the wires going to the headlight are already switched from the key are they not??

My bike already had an H4 in it, why would you have to rewire from an incadesent to halogen in automotive you don't and the wires going to the headlight are already switched from the key are they not??