75 kz400d neutral light issue. Help needed!

I'll try when I get home.

Here's what I'm trying to explain.
You can see my neutral switch in the picture below. Lower center of the picture with a single red green wire to it. If I pull that wire off the neuitral switch and touch it to clean metal on the engine case then the neutral light indicator will light. That verifies the wiring is good.
battery + to ignition switch to bulb to the end of the wire to the engine case to battery -





If you do this and get the light to come on then the problem is either the switch or how it is acted upon from inside the engine case.
If you do this and the light does not some on then the problem is in the wiring.

Ok so wire to engine case and neutral light lights up. Pulled out the neutral switch and it looked fine there is a nub and it moves with pressure. Looked in the hole and saw a corresponding nub that it would contact with. It appears to be a simple mechanical switch and with only 4000 miles on the bike I don't know how it would have worn down.

The switch may be gummed up.
steve

I had this neutral light failure to function on my KZ1000p7. My switch looks the same as the one pictured above. The wiring looks the same as well. Removing he wire from the switch and touching it to engine case (ground) and the light functioned. So I pulled the switch from the case. It looked fine. So I pushed the brass pin on the switch all the way in and twisted it around several times. Re installed the switch, and it has worked fine since.

To test the switch, simply connect a ohm meter between the the stud the wire connects to and the body of the switch. Push in the brass pin that goes into the engine. The switch should read open with the pin is out and short when the pin is in.

I though the issue on mine was that the brass pin for some reason was not long enough. After my twisting (cleaning?) the pin, it has worked fine so I haven't worried about it since.

I'm having the same issue. It's not the switch, it's the multi pin connector leading up to the gauge cluster. I've fixed it over and over but I need a new connector housing. Worn out.
Steve

confirmed its the switch itself that is at fault, removed the switch and got the pin to pull out farther seems like it was gummed up. However the spring also seems gummed and is going nowhere so it seems like I need a new switch.

Thanks everyone for your input, great community we have here.

You might push it in and fill it with carb spray, work it until it snaps back easy.
Steve