1983 GPz Starting issue

Ok so quick little background, my GPz will only crank if the clutch is out and the neutral light is on, not sure if this is how it was designed from the factory to work or not. Its generally a non issue if its leaned over on the side stand, however if its upright while I'm sitting on it I have a helluva time getting the light to come on, even if it is actually in neutral. So this makes getting it started a huge pain. So my question is does anyone know how to modify it so its a clutch in safety only, or if that's going to be a big project, how to just disable it all together? My apology's if this is hard to follow. I tend to ramble.

Some of the gpz's had a diode logic unit to handle the ignition and starter interlock devices. That can be bypassed by grounding the correct wire and/ or jumping the switches. What model are we talking about?

Its a GPz 750, unitrack. Not really sure of a more specific way to describe what model it is. Know where I can find a wiring diagram for it by any chance?

mbsween.bike-night.com/kz750l3/index.html

Scroll down to "The Bible"

Good Fortune!

Ok so after staring at the diagram for 30 minutes it started to make sense, however I'm not seeing exactly how the Neutral Switch, the starter, the ignition switch and the Neutral light all tie into each other, anyone have any clues? Also I've been doing some research and I think the bike should crank with the clutch pulled in, but it does not, even when the neutral light is on.

I think that makes it a ZX (rather than a KZ). I'll see if I can find a diagram.

Here's the two I have. I got them from the web, then cleaned up the background bleed.
The 83 is non-U.S.
The U.S. one is for 84.
So neither is 100% your bike (I assume you are in the U.S. or Canada), but they should be close enough to work from.

I notice that clicking on the image is not showing full size. You may have to download the images, or open them in a new window, or drag them to your desktop, etc. to get them full size. (On my Chrome, opening in a new tab, then using the magnifying glass expands them to full size.)

The junction box is a big question mark, but I think the igniter is very much like the one on the 550 in regards to the interlock system. So I added a diagram from the Zx550 igniter. You can probably use that diagram to bypass the lockouts the same way on the Zx750.
Basically, you will ground the Black/White wire from pin 3 of the igniter. (That wire is Brown/White on the ZX550.)

This is for the ignition.

Now I'll look at the starter wiring.

Looks like you could disconnect the black wire on pin 11 of the junction box, and disconnect the yellow/red wire on pin 3 of the junction box, and simply tie them together. This will bypass all lockouts for the starter. But I'm not sure what other effects that may have, regarding lighting etc., though I doubt it will. Most likely, that entire junction box can be eliminated by jumping the proper wires together.

Awesome, thanks. Yes I am in the US by the way. After looking over the bike last night I did notice the wires going into the clutch lever area, there's a white, yellow and black. The black one has been cut, cleanly, someone clearly cut it on purpose for some reason. I assume that is the ground. I'll try and fix the wire and see if that fixes the not starting with the clutch in. If not I'll have to start chasing wires to the interlock system to try and disable the neutral safety switch.

I have edited my post above. (But won't edit it anymore now that you're online.)

That clutch switch may or may not be a ground. The junction box is a big unknown, so it's hard to say how the different interlock switches are wired, but if you desire to simplify the whole system and eliminate the junction box, and all of the odd switches located throughout the bike, it shouldn't be too hard.

The 84 diagram does not include pin numbers on the junction box, so be sure to verify the number and wire color in case the diagram has any mistakes. If there is a conflict, check in here first, and we'll figure it out.