Electrical issues - Lights blowing main fuse

Hoping someone has had something similar happen. I own a 77 kz1000, Had my bike sitting for a few months this summer because of a blown tire, Finally was able to replace. Had a hard time starting, finally did start but went about a mile down the road and everything died on me leaving me stranded and walking home. Found out was a blown fuse, which is the 20 amp main. Managed to get home but now the turning signals are blinking faster than normal, and sometimes the right one will not work but the headlight will blink along with the indicator lights next to speedometer (such as the brake light, neutral light, along with headlight). The 20 amp fuse appears as if it wants to blow but is holding on, afraid to go for a ride without it dying again. I did realize the battery was dry after this, so added some water and it did start the bike but still with lights acting weird. So I did buy a new battery hoping that was the issue but still the lights are not right and the fuse is on the edge of blowing. Hoping someone out there has an idea of what could this could be before I go and start tearing apart everything on the bike. Anxious to ride before snow flies

Somethings to check:
1.Get a mutimeter to be able to test the battery voltage, The Analog(moving needle) type is not as sensitive as the Digital types are.
2. Set the meter on VDC(Volts Direct Current), range of 20.
3.You'll need help with the testing, but having alligator clips for the meters test probes eliminates a helper.
4.Connect the RED probe from the meter, to the Positive(+) battery terminal.
5. Connect the BLACK probe from the meter to either the Negative(-) battery terminal, or a good chassis ground.
6.Start the engine, and read the voltage. It should not be more than 14.5 VDC, if it is, the charging system needs further testing.

A good troubleshooting page is at www.electrosport.com


The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!
Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go on/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

First things I would do is check the water level in the battery,
clean all the battery terminals and the negative lead from the battery to the case of the engine.
And do not run the engine with the battery disconnected.

Thanks for the help, any other advice would be appreciated. The new battery I purchased is maintenance free so should not have to worry about water I hope.

drewmcquillan@yahoo.com wrote: Thanks for the help, any other advice would be appreciated. The new battery I purchased is maintenance free so should not have to worry about water I hope.

ok! Now make sure the battery isn't connect backwards and you have a stellar ground lead from negative to chassis/engine ground.

I had a similar problem on my 650 where the main 20 amp fuse would blow when I switched on the hazard lights. Turned out to be one of the 6 pin connectors that sits right underneath the tank. It was crushed and created an open contact. This same 6 pin feeds turn signals and other lights. I taped it up and later replaced the connector and pins for piece of mind. Check you wiring diagram and locate your connectors, see if they are all in good shape.