Battery Died on me Last Night

Ed,
Thanks you very much. This is great. You seem to an endless wealth of knowledge.
Thanks again...

Pete,
No I wont waste any money on Clymer's, or Haynes. I learned years ago from the automotive side that they were not a reliable source.
Thanks,

Ty

Ed, Steve, Pete,

Thanks again for all of the great help and information. As this morning on break I have download a service manual from scribd...like $8...cheep. I have also ordered a new battery from High Tech Battery Solutions. With the promotional code they had and free shipping, that was like $74. I decided to go with a MotoBatt AGM type battery. I hope this will be a good choice. MotoBatt seems to have very good reviews for the most part from the research I have found. As low as the fluid levels were in this current battery and the fact that it is working on three years old I just might as well replace it. Once I get the new battery I plan on doing a proper charging system diagnosis.

Thanks Again,
Ty

Yeah, you don't want to cook the new one. Not a bad price. Let us know how it works from time to time. I might buy one myself. I'm very happy with High Tech. They did me a solid twice when I needed it. :woohoo:
Steve

Update,

Got my new MotoBatt battery and it was no good out of the box. It had 11.62 V and failed load test. So I had to return it High Tech Battery Solutions and they replaced it. Great people to deal with.
Put the new battery in, started the bike up to warn it up. Started checking the charging system closer. From idle to about 2500 rpm it was not charging at all; pretty much battery voltage. After 2500 rpm it would charge up to about 13 V to 13.5 V. Using Ed's information he posted for me and my new service manual I was able to adjust the voltage regulator a little. Now on the upper rpm range I am getting 13.7 V to 14.2 V; but I still have pretty much battery voltage on the lower rpm range. This was all done with no load on the charging system. Well the neutral light was on but nothing else. I did not have time to do any other diagnosis. At this time I am leaning towards the voltage regulator. There are two point contacts in there just like points on the ignition system and I could not see where the contacts would change back and forth through the rpm range but I am not sure if I should. I also NEED to go through the electrical system to check cleanliness of all the connections so I know I am not getting some false readings.
I hope to have more time this week end. First thing I will do is clean the connections and do some further checking.
Thanks,
Ty

Great news. Check with all lights on and turn signals. Watch as it pulses.
Steve

Another Update,
Went through and cleaned and tightened all connections I could get my hands on. Stator checked out great and the rectifier not so good and the regulator resistance was too high even after cleaning contact points. I am looking into the all in one r/r from Z1.



Are these a good quality part or are there other companies out there that are a better quality?
Thanks,
Ty

The 77 Kz650 charge system I've dealt with were able to put out near 14v, even at idle with lights on etc. Do you have an aftermarket ignition, or running stock points and coils?

Be sure to get the right reg/rec. The 77 650 uses a unique system that is not compatible with any other year 650. Make sure the regulator is designed for a field-coil alternator (aka excited field, or electromagnet field). Sometimes sellers don't realize the 77 is different. Z1 Enterprises should be pretty familiar with it though.

I am still running points and stock coils. No aftermarket electronics of any kind. Thanks for the heads up on buying to correct R/R.
Thanks,
Ty

These folks make great rectifiers and regulators. I've been using one of their rectifiers (R255a-KZ650) on my 1977 KZ650-C1 for years, and it works perfectly. It was plug & play. Ed

www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/Products.html

Ed,
Thanks for the link. They are about ha;f the price of Z1. Plus they are made in the USA.
Thanks,
Ty