Fuel Gauge Light Socket - Z1-R

Looking for a connector for the bulb which



backlights the fuel gauge on my '78 Z1-R.
The one on mine has been chopped off and lost by some FW PO!
Attached is a pic of the underneath of the fuel gauge to show the sleeve type socket where the bulb connector slides into.

This connector is part of the "meter socket ass'y" but if someone has a trashed harness then I'd be interested in buying it for this part.
Attached is a pic of the corresponding bulb and connector which backlight the Ammeter - slightly different as it has 2 wires , one for the power and the other earth. The fuel gauge connector is different - it gets its earth from a wire to the frame which connects to the body of the ammeter and just has the powere wire. I can adapt an ammeter lead & connector if someone has one I can use.



Attached is a pic of the ammeter lamp connector.

Wondering if this might work for you......

www.z1parts.net/product/meter-light-z1

Looks like it might be a cheap and handy option - thanks!
I designed an alternative using a LED in a rubber socket to replace the fuel gauge backlight only.
(If I need to replace both the fuel gauge and ammeter backlights I'll keep this in mind.

)

crafty lil bugger now ain'tcha!?

leon

I ran out of patience trying to source a replacement or alternative for the sleeve style lamp.
Tried many Pommy and Japanese bike and car parts suppliers, wreckers etc but NBG!
Tried a range of LEDs - size, brightness, colour and lens angle until I got one to match
the light output of its buddy in the ammeter.
LEDs are very cheap, low current, very durable and very reliable.

Like that LED option. Very nice handy work.

Also, lots of LEDs come already fitted with a suitable current limiting resistor for 12Volt operation.
All you have to do is connect the flying leads on the LED to your existing harness or crimp on
some open barrel connectors and you're in business! May need to splice thicker wires to the
flying leads to enable a good crimp onto the leads.( I didn't and still managed to get good crimps.)
Just need to observe the LED's polarity otherwise it won't light up when the 12Volts is applied.
Also, if using a Male/female open barrel or "bullet" terminal to make the connection,
make sure the supply side of the connection is a female.
That way if the connector comes apart then there is less chance of the supply shorting to something.