hey guys having trouble with my electric start. I bought the bike with it not working trying to figure it out. bought a new relay hooked it up and bypassed the push button switch by just hooking the yellow/red green/red directly to the batter and my coil started smoking lol. I had an extra coil so I disconnected the starter lead and tried again with the battery with and ohm meter hooked up and relay is functioning properly. I'm thinking the starter itself must have a short? I hooked my ohm meter up to the terminal on the starter (with the cable unhooked) and to the ground(engine case) and it showed a closed circuit! is that supposed to be closed?? I don't see how that positive terminal could be grounded unless the starter itself is marfed up internally. any help would be great kickstarting isn't bad until it doesn't want to start in the morning and I'm out of breath on the 5th kick haha
it's a 76 kaw750 twin. If i jump the relay (put a screw driver across the terminals) the starter turns over. but it also gets my coil super hot, and applying the clutch doesn't work for the kickstart but maybe it will for the electric start? could it really be that simple? we'll see!!
So the starter spins if current passes through? I own a 1980 750 twin (G LTD twin) and also bought the bike with the electric start not working. I went through the steps to see what wasnt working and started with applying a current to the starter itself and the damn thing spun like a champ. I did some research and it said that the little pins and rollers that are inside your starter clutch are not grabbing because the springs that push the pins out can be over used and compressed. (not the starter, this think is behind the alternator type thing on the chain side of the engine). All i did was bought a used starter clutch which goes for about $90 dollars. You can also buy a starter clutch/flywheel rebuild kit from kzenterprises.com for around $30 I think. It's not that daunting of a task to do but the hardest part is getting the alternator/ stator off to expose the starter clutch which is kind of attached to it. This is hard because the bolt to get the thing off is a left hand thread. I used an impact wrench to get it off but once the nut is off you can take off the back axle to break the vacuum seal type thing and it will slide right off. Then using the rebuild kit to replace all those worn springs and rollers. This is what was wrong with my electric start and now it works MOST of the time.... Before you buy these parts though you might just want to get to starter clutch and see if those springs, rollers, or pins are messed up at all. I bought the rebuild kit and another used starter clutch.
I tried pulling back the clutch lever, still a no go haha I found a used starter clutch on eBay for 130 with shipping but I only spent 200 bucks on the whole damn bike and would be a tad salty if it wasn't for sure the problem, I'm going to go with the rebuild kit! any one with a working starter; if you put an ohm meter Lear on the terminal on the starter and one on the frame do you get an opened or closed circuit? mine is closed for some reason like I said before how is that positive terminal grounded must be a short in the starter I'm thinking? and what else would case me to blow a fuse and burn up my coil when I bypassed the cyclinoid??
