Z1r Z1000 Replacement Rectifier wiring

The connector coming from the alternator has 5 wires. Three yellow, cut and connect them to your yellow ones. Leave the connector in place. Oil/neutral switch. Run the black to ground and bypass the charging connector to battery. It is a Reg/Rect unit up grading the old 70's technology. Bolt the new unit where the regulator was, (heat transfer).
Steve

if you go to this website, there's picture of a failed rectifier or regulator, that could have destroyed the bike. The page will show a blank page, but the information is there:

www.redlinecycle.com/rectifiers.html

A misfet R/R is the way to go. There is a cheaper one here and it comes as a kit. This guy has videos on how to connect it. He will even replace one at cost if you hook it up wrong and fry it. www.roadstercycle.com/

thanks
one question the old regulator has a connection to the ignition switch and starter in the block connector what do I do with those or do I just ignore ? also what exactly do u mean by 'and bypass the charging connector to battery' as the unit ( ie do I not connect the red to positive ?) this is a Red/white wire that's looks to connect to positive

again thanks to everyone for helping

Steve

Yes disconnect the old ones and use the white and red wire in the double connector. The other one goes to the switch.
Steve

thanks Steve
did all that bike runs still but still only getting a constant 11.20 volts at idle and a rise to 11..72 volts across battery at 4k rpm
now stripped stator as it got be that, has 3 wires coming out, on one the coating has perished inside the case, and could have been contacting the outer casing, will start test process on that, but did one test to test circuit, when touching the wire where is has perished and at the connector end of this wire i still get a compete circuit, but weirdly in my mind when i touch either of the other two yellow wires to the broken wire i get a circuit, do u know if this is correct, i guess i can test on one of me other bikes - but worth asking, as it could lead me to believe all 3 wires are open and may be why im not getting 14.5 volts

thanks again

Steve

hi done a little more testing and yt watching and done stator testing seems thats Ok and get .9 ohms between each and not grounding out to earth, since it have taken it out of the bike will tidy the wiring and replace for the final check when running the bike, need sleep
steve

You can test the three wires. #1 to #2 #2 to #3 To#1, #3 to #1 and so on. They should read 15 VAC. If one is not connected you will get low DC voltage. The rectifier converts AC to DC and some voltage is lost to heat. That's how it works.
Steve

yep that's what I reckon, the one with the covering off may have been shorting the rest there not providing AC fingers crossed once I tidy it all up and reinstate it all works, roll on summer (Uk base at present)

so checked the ac coming out of stator, at idle i get 17 volts at 4K revs I get 57-60 volts - all the same on each of the 3 tests so seems to be working
re checked the the combo reg/rec all reading are correct so no bad diodes
I connected it all up directly ie bypassing any connector plugs to ensure good clean contacts and I only get 11.75 dc across the battery
unconnected it and I get 11.17 volts, so something is working ie i get some additional input when connected, but not the 14.5 volts I should get
anyone got any idea's im at a loss now
thanks Steve

When the battery has been sitting overnight what is the voltage? It might be marginal.
Steve

i did charge it, and it was 13.5 after , then was holding 12.6, but after starting bike etc goes to 11.78 , im going to try another battery today from one of me other girls

fingers crossed