82 GPZ750 clutch interlock plug in location

Could someone tell me if the plug in for the clutch interlock is inside the head light shell. I rebuilt the carbs & put the tank on and I have nothing at the starter button. The battery is good, I can jump the solenoid and the engine turns over prefect. People have suggested that I may have unplugged this putting tank back on. Someone said the plug was under the rubber where the tank goes on. if its there I sure cant find it

Yeah, that was me assuming :blush: Turns out on your bike the clutch interlock switch connects through one of the multiplugs coming down from the left switchgear (see pic below) - on my bikes they plug in separately (or used to do before I deleted the switches). Sorry for the confusion, guess you can disregard that bit of advice...

Trace back from the interlock switch, the wire, or small cable. It may go into the headlight housing, and it's usually BLACK wires, that connect to the main wire bundle.

MFolks wrote: Trace back from the interlock switch, the wire, or small cable. It may go into the headlight housing, and it's usually BLACK wires, that connect to the main wire bundle.

+1 Trace it from clutch lever. On the KZ650 it does not run into the headlight shell. It runs along the handlebars then between the gauge bracket and the forks then back under the tank where it connects to the main harness. Ed

I cant find anything unplugged any where. I took the tank off again to get a good look. The only other thing I did besides the carbs was hook the low battery water warning wire to a switched hot wire, I even tried unplugging that, Fuses are all good, battery is good, I can jump the solenoid & the bike turns over, Im stumped. Ill get on it again as soon as I get back from the Alaska trip, Thanks for the help, keep the ideas coming

It's possible, the interlock switch has failed. Most are sealed up, not allowing access to the electrical contacts. If a replacement can't be found, you might have to bypass the switch by splicing the wires together, but then, you'd have to remember to squeeze the clutch lever when starting(especially if the engine's in gear).

Should be able to strip the wires back & see if theres continuity with the clutch tied in with a zip tie then right ?. Just don't get why it worked before I did the carbs & now it dont

If you have a mutimeter, test at the switch's connectors in OHMS, with the bike's ignition switch in the off position. Squeeze the clutch lever, and see if the meter indicates continuity, if no indication, possibly the switch has failed.