stator output/charging system

Have 16.6 charging voltage on 81 KZ1100A. After ordering a new voltage reg. I checked the stator output. On all three phases @ 4000rpm I'm reading 92acv. Checking the resistance on the phases I get .6 ohms. I have infinite reading from each phase to ground.
Should I be concerned about the high acv readings? They are all consistent.

Thanks,
Steve.

Yes, you should be concern. Something wrong with the R/R. Since it's new, most likely a wiring issue. Grounding is often an issue; make sure you have a solid ground to the frame or directly to the battery.

www.electrosport.com has a good troubleshooting page, helpful in these situations. I believe you should see no more than 14.5 volts Direct Current at the battery, any more, and the battery, light bulbs, and the ignition system's at risk.

Nessism wrote: Yes, you should be concern. Something wrong with the R/R. Since it's new, most likely a wiring issue. Grounding is often an issue; make sure you have a solid ground to the frame or directly to the battery.

I have a similar issue. Since I installed an OEM Kawasaki rotor two weeks ago, my battery has been charging, which it hadn't been doing for a long time. Previously, I was using a Battery Tender Jr. every other day for the past riding season to keep it going.
Now the engine cranks over great, the lights are bright, and the fuses appear normal and have not burned out.
All seems normal, except my accessory GPS Volt reading shows fluctuations from 12.9V to 16.5V while the engine is running. At idle it hovers around 13.2V and quickly jumps to 15V, and to 16.5 as the motor winds up...but doesn't go above that.
I've plugged in three different Voltage regulator/rectifiers, and all show the same volt readings on my GPS. So, is my inventory of regulator/rectifiers faulty, or is it something else...or even a problem at all? Perhaps my GPS volt readings aren't accurate.

These later KZ 3 phase charging systems have a separate voltage sense wire for the regulator, it is a Brown wire from the factory. On a replacement it may be a different color on the new R/R but the harness should still be brown. This wire needs to be as close to battery voltage as possible, if there is a voltage drop in this circuit, the R/R will see the Lower voltage and overcharge the battery.
So measure across the battery, and leaving the black negative test lead on the _ battery post, measure the Brown wire at the R/R plug. See the same voltage or a volt or more less?
If it is less this is your issue. Following your wiring schematic you will see how the brown wire powers a lot of your bike, and with that load will drop voltage by the time it is at the R/R plug.
You need to rectify this voltage drop, Before replacing the R/R.
Also a crappy battery c an make the system overcharge so make sure your battery is good.

Motor Head wrote: Also a crappy battery c an make the system overcharge so make sure your battery is good.

I like this solution, but your suggestion to test the brown wire...should the key be off or on, with engine running?

Check it key-on, motor not turning, and with motor running. Sometimes it takes time for the voltage to show since the losses may require some time for the bad connection to heat up.

You can measure the drop directly but putting the voltmeter red lead on the battery's positive terminal and the meter black lead on the brown wire at the regulator (while it's connected with bike running). This reading should always be near zero volts.

Thanks gentlemen! All were a help. After checking out and following the flow chart it was determined I had a faulty RR. The charging voltage is now within range.

Of course it's always fix one problem then venture onto the next.

The next issue is flat spot off idle. I'm assuming it's the carbs, although I have gone through them twice. From other circumstances I've read I may have to test out the ignition pick-ups as well once they have come to operating temp.

Is there any experience with that issue anyone has dealt with?173

Thanks again!

I'd check & replace the sparkplug caps, as there's a 5000 ohm resistor inside for RFI reduction, that can go bad. The caps unscrew from the sparkplug wires.

Ignition Coils And Sparkplug Wire Choices

What came with the bike, were ignition coils that even when new were marginal, add years of cooking under the tank in the stop and go traffic, and the ignition coils will probably fail when hot.

Replacement coils can be bought at www.z1enterprises.com
I believe “Emgo” is the brand. They also carry the popular Dyna 2.2 and 3 ohm coils, along with replacement sparkplug wires.

Now, you have a choice on sparkplug wires:

1. Copper plug wires with no supression caps (the best choice, but will produce audio noise on Radio’s and TV’s). Not only do the copper core wires deliver better spark, they will also deliver a much longer lifespan - carbon core wires are prone to erratic spark delivery and early breakdown, & short lifespan.

2. Copper plug wires with supression caps (a built in 5000 ohm resistor, that can sometimes fail, like what came with the bike). These should be checked with a multimeter now and then, as heat can cause them to become intermittent.

3. Copper plug wires with no supression caps, but using resistor plugs(the “R” in the plug number).

4. Supression plug wires with no supression caps.

NEVER use resistor plugs combined with supression caps along with supression plug wires, as now there will be possibly three (3) sources of resistance in the secondary windings of the ignition coils, greatly reducing the spark energy.

Another choice is the Accel 3 ohm coils, with a similar, primary(small wire)electrical connection, using ring terminals as the Dyna ignition coils do. Whatever brand of coil you go with, make sure the primary wires will clear the mounting hardware, as the spacers come close, possibly blowing a fuse. Some riders have replaced the metal spacers with non conductive Nylon spacers, reducing the chance of an electrical problem.

7mm sparkplug wires will fit the stock ignition coils(if they have replaceable wires, indicated by screw off caps on the coils with ridges). The sparkplug wires fit into a port with a brass ”Stinger” that goes into the sparkplug wire or lead(the Brit’s. Canadians, and other countries call the sparkplug wires (“High Tension Leads”).