Interpretation and switch question for the electrical gurus.

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03 Jun 2014 19:59 #635253 by Medicontheloose
Could someone help me interpret this diagram please. I'm not so smart when it comes to interpreting these things. Also, could this be wired to an DPDT switch?

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"That others may live."

1980 KZ750E
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03 Jun 2014 20:46 #635261 by Tomolu5
No sir, at a glance, a dpdt will not work as there are three separate throws in the on position.

To break it down, it looks like there are two separate feed from the battery(white). There is likely to much load for one wire/set of contacts. When the switch is off, none of the wires are connected to anything. In the on position; brown, white#1, and yellow are connected; blue is connected to red; and white#2 is Connected with orange/green(orange wire with green stripe). In the park position, white#1 connects with red, and white#2 connects with orange/green. With a full diagram I could tell you the purpose for each wire, but I will bet they are all necessary. If you are trying to replace the ignition switch with a toggle switch of sorts, it could be done with a three position switch and about 5 relays, but I would think you will run out of space quickly. Also by the time the cost adds up, I'm sure you could find a replacement on eBay.

Mine:
04 Honda rebel 250(wifes)
04 GSXR 750(bolt on galore)
98 CBR 600F3(filter, pipe, adjustable cam sprokets, dyno tune)
76 KZ900A (LTD gauge pods, crash bars, LTD(style)pipes, dyna coils and ignition,headwork and mild port cleanup by cavanaugh racing, K&N filter pods, heck I dunno.

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03 Jun 2014 20:54 #635263 by Medicontheloose
Thanks. Could you explain the relays?

"That others may live."

1980 KZ750E

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03 Jun 2014 21:05 #635266 by Tomolu5
You could activate the three relays needed with one switch. It could be a single pole switch, and three relays if you are willing to scrap the parking light feature. I gotta ask, what is it you are trying to accomplish?

Mine:
04 Honda rebel 250(wifes)
04 GSXR 750(bolt on galore)
98 CBR 600F3(filter, pipe, adjustable cam sprokets, dyno tune)
76 KZ900A (LTD gauge pods, crash bars, LTD(style)pipes, dyna coils and ignition,headwork and mild port cleanup by cavanaugh racing, K&N filter pods, heck I dunno.

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03 Jun 2014 21:16 #635269 by Medicontheloose
I'm thinking of eliminating the ignition switch. Would it be possible to put the red and blue wires on a relay and the rest in the switch?

"That others may live."

1980 KZ750E

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03 Jun 2014 21:43 #635274 by bountyhunter
Part of the switch function is for parking light position which is not absolutely required. The reason bikes and cars break circuits into multiple branches is so they can be served on different fuses. Theoretically, you could run the whole electrical system off a single switch with a giant fuse but it's not recommended.

1979 KZ-750 Twin

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03 Jun 2014 23:43 - 03 Jun 2014 23:45 #635288 by loudhvx
You can run it all on one switch if you don't care about some of the parking position functions.
There is a type of DPDT switch that has an OFF position in the middle. That can be useful.
But even a normal DPDT switch will work if you don't care about the park function.
There are several configurations depending on what you want it to do.
Here are two samples which retain the normal fuse functions.



If you run everything off of one fuse, it won't be "huge", it would just be the same size as the main fuse... likely 20A.

The most important thing is to get a good switch. Big metal toggles with a metal frame are the way to go. Don't get the ones that are all plastic (vinyl, PVC etc.). Regardless of rating, they seem to melt in the "ON" position then you can't turn them off. They can have plastic, preferrably epoxy or phenolic, cases, as long as the frame/neck and toggle are metal. A good one will not be dirt cheap, it may be around $20.

Aircraft, and some higher end marine switches are probably best.

I haven't used this, but something like this would probably work.
www.newark.com/nkk-switches/s823/switch-...PPSO_N_P_Toggle_None

Mfolks probably has a bunch of links to good switches.
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04 Jun 2014 06:46 #635312 by Medicontheloose
Thanks for that info. That's very similar to the switch that I have. The one I have is an aircraft locking DPDT. Rated the same. I'm confused about the red and blue wires, do I not need a relay to get them power?

"That others may live."

1980 KZ750E

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04 Jun 2014 07:34 - 04 Jun 2014 07:38 #635318 by loudhvx
The red wire is just the tail light.

With the stock switch, when in RUN mode, the white wire provides power to the brown wire, which routes power to the secondary lighting fuse, which routes power to the blue wire, which then provides power to the red wire, which powers the tail filament.

With the stock switch, when in PARK mode, the white wire provides power to the red wire, which powers the tail filament.

The white wire is the main power wire. It gets power from the main 20A fuse, which gets power from the battery. The switch has two white wires, but they are actually both from the same white wire. They are both connected to the main white wire at a Y junction. Both white wires perform the same function. If they are the same gauge, they can be interchanged.
Last edit: 04 Jun 2014 07:38 by loudhvx.

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04 Jun 2014 08:15 #635328 by Medicontheloose
Awesome. Thanks so much. Solved my issue. Should be together this afternoon.

"That others may live."

1980 KZ750E

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