1983 GPZ 1100 Fuel injection Question

I have a 1983 GPZ 1100 donor bike and I would like to know If I could use that fuel injection system on another bike. The reason I am asking is because I am thinking of using it earlier GPZ. Since most of our bikes use the 1-2-4-3 firing order i thought it might be possible.

Any information would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Tee

You'll need :
1. Air temp sensor
2. Engine temp sensor(between the #1, and #2 cylinders, below the intake side)
3. TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).
4. Control box & place to mount it with no vibration.
5. Injectors.
6. Injector mounts(manifolds).
7. Fuel pump
8. Fuel filter & place to mount it.
9. Fuel pressure regulator.
10. One way return valve in bottom of tank(to maintain the 33 PSI fuel pressure.
11. Related wiring, for injectors, control box, & fuel pump.
12. Related fuel hoses, as anything before the pump in not pressurized, but after, the hoses need to withstand 33-40 PSI ratings.

Kawasaki Fuel Injection Sensor Specs

Here's from my 1982 GPz1100 B2 factory shop manual:

Air temperature sensor spec(probably the one on the air filter housing, or next to it).

Meter at ohms X 1K ohms ( I use ohms X 2K as it works on my meter). Disconnect the wiring from the harness, one meter probe to one of the connector pins, the other on the last pin.

Should read 2.0K ohms to 3.0 K ohms at 68 F, if your meter won't read this, try the 20K ohm setting.

A footnote says this reading is true when sensor temperature is 20C (68F), 4.7 K ohms to 7.6 K ohms when 0 C (32 F) and 1.4 K ohms to 2.2 K ohms when 30 C (86 F).

Engine temperature sensor spec, Usually mounted between #1 and #2 cylinder under the throttle bodies on the intake side:
Again, meter to 2K ohm settings, one meter lead to the push on terminal (remove the wire as it may give a false reading) and the other to a chassis ground(any Black with Yellow stripe wire is part of the ground circuit).

The readings will be the same as the air temperature sensor.

The TPS has an electrical connector, only the first three(3) contacts are used, counting from left to right as you face it.

From my factory shop manual I'm making it easier to get the readings, by using shortcuts).


1. Ignition switch off.

2. Remove the small SS clip holding the cable to the TPS.

3. Using a multimeter set on ohms, range of 2K.

4. Measure between the first electrical contact on the left and the third to the right.

5. It should read between 3.3K ohms to 6.8K ohms.

The next test will cover the range between idle and full throttle:

1. Set the meter's probes on the left contact and the one next to it, as this is the idle position check.

2. Readings should be between 2.1K ohms to 4.2 K ohms

Full throttle check:

1. Same electrical contacts used.

2. With the throttle wide open, readings should be between 0.35 K ohms to 0.71 K ohms, see if the resistance changes smoothly, with no fluctuations or wide variations as the throttle is closed down to the idle position.

3. If there are variations, try cleaning the TPS with the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner/preservative. Open and close it with the throttle while spraying the cleaner up inside.

4. www.deoxit.com is the website for the electrical contact cleaner/preservative. It can be purchased at Radio Shack Stores and other electronic supply places.