Help me trouble shoot. Possable ignitor problem?

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08 May 2014 19:37 #631874 by mayday119
First off let me start by saying this is not a Stock bike. I bought this from a guy on Criagslist as a running bike.
Its a kz1000 LTD. I will be happy to take ANY pictures you request at any angle you require me to. The wiring is a mess and i have been busy redoing alot of it. The guy has this thing running on a very very simple schimatic. Its literally a battery that feeds 1 switch, That 1 switch turns on Both headlight and taillight and activate the ignition eccestinally turning "on the bike" With out that swtich on, nothing will run. The Electric starter however is on a seperate push button switch that will still activate even if the main switch is in the off postition. One switch activates the whole bike. There are no turn signals, No speedo or Tach. It is a bare bones raw bike. Now the bike ran Decent when i bought it. But when the plug wires stared to fall out i decided it was time for an overhaul before this season started...........
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What have done so far:
New Coils
New plugs (NGK)
New wires
New plug connectors (NGK)
LED front and Tail lights
New Throttle cables (Push And Pull)
New Clutch cable
New clutch Hanger and lever
New Clutch packs and plates
New starter and Ring gear
Cleaned Carbs, Off the bike didnt remove any internels, Just cleaned and let sit in carb cleaner.
New Carb Gaskets and Rubber Holders

Here are the systems.
~Lots of back fire, both at idle and under de-acceleration
~Low Idle (rough idle)
~If i roll into the throttle, once i go past 20% or so throttle, the bike begains to fall on its face and sputter with periods of Full acceleration mixed with de-acceleration

A few interesting Side notes.
~When i got the bike it ran decent, Not great but decent. It kept popping Lights both front and rear. I figured it was the vibration killing them so i installed LED ones.
~Then it started fouling plugs, I adjusted the idle a little so it would idle a little higher then stock this seemed to fix the problem. It would foul sitting at lights for extended times.
~I replaced the Coils, plugs and Wires, and it ran STRONG. Very very strong. Fast. But only for like 5-6 good long rides, then it started to get sloppy. idleing low and popping.
~On my way home one night when this started happening, My LED headlight Went out. Weird because it only had maybe 20 hours on it. I went and got a new halogin one, and it wouldnt work either. cleand the ground and it worked then, but the LED one was still done for even with a cleaned ground.
About the time that happened, the bike started running very rough. Almost as if one cylidder isnt firing.
Iv checked spark in all 4, and they are all lighting.
~Putting around its fine after i get to maybe 2k rpms. any higher then 6 and it falls on its face. sounds like the spark is going out when i roll into it.
Now its popping the only fuse on the bike. not all the time, but here and there I will be riding and "pop" the bike dies beccause one fuse controls the bike.

Iv looked at EVERY SINGLE connection on the bike, EVERY SINGLE ground. Everything is perfect, I even redid alot of the connections and solder joints.

It has to be electrical it has to be, e erything its pointing at something electrical.
This is my first bike so im still learning, But im a huge car guy so im very mechanicaly inclined. Im just not experianced enought with 2 wheels to pinpoint this problem on my own. Iv tried EVERYthing i can think of besides a new battery. Please help, what am i missing? can you help direct me to tourble shooting this problem? Have i over looked something you bike guys know and I do not? Please help, Its so nice and I want to Braaaaap.

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08 May 2014 21:17 #631886 by MFolks
What is the battery voltage at idle? It should not be more than 14.5 Volts D.C. if more than that I suspect your voltage regulator/rectifier needs replacing.

www.electrosport.com has a good troubleshooting page on their website.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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08 May 2014 21:58 - 08 May 2014 21:59 #631887 by Patton

mayday119 wrote: ...kz1000 LTD...when the plug wires stared to fall out...

New Coils
New plugs (NGK)
New wires
New plug connectors (NGK)

Cleaned Carbs, Off the bike didnt remove any internels, Just cleaned and let sit in carb cleaner.
New Carb Gaskets and Rubber Holders...

Lots of back fire, both at idle and under de-acceleration
Low Idle (rough idle)...
started fouling plugs...would foul sitting at lights for extended times.

I replaced the Coils, plugs and Wires, and it ran STRONG. Very very strong. Fast. But only for like 5-6 good long rides, then it started to get sloppy. idleing low and popping... running very rough. Almost as if one cylidder isnt firing.
Iv checked spark in all 4, and they are all lighting.
Putting around its fine after i get to maybe 2k rpms. any higher then 6 and it falls on its face. sounds like the spark is going out when i roll into it... looked at EVERY SINGLE connection on the bike, EVERY SINGLE ground....


when the plug wires stared to fall out --- fall out of what?

New Coils --- correct resistance?
New plugs (NGK) --- NGKB8ES?
New wires --- solid core?
New plug connectors (NGK) --- what resistance? (Would perhaps produce hotter spark with Dyna solid core wires with integrated non-resistor caps).

Cleaned Carbs, Off the bike didnt remove any internels, Just cleaned and let sit in carb cleaner. --- then the carbs aren't even close to being "as new" clean. And are likely causing many of the reported issues, especially the pilot circuits.

New Carb Gaskets and Rubber Holders --- airbox hoses or carb holders?

Lots of back fire, both at idle and under de-acceleration --- dirty (and probably mal-adjusted) carb pilot circuits. And also possibility of a sticking timing advancer.

Low Idle (rough idle)... dirty pilot circuits. Possibly too tight valve clearances. Carbs not properly synced, etc., etc.

started fouling plugs...would foul sitting at lights for extended times--- dirty, maladjusted pilot circuits; weak ignition for whatever reason, etc., etc.

replaced the Coils, plugs and Wires, and it ran STRONG. Very very strong. Fast. But only for like 5-6 good long rides, then it started to get sloppy. idleing low and popping... running very rough. Almost as if one cylidder isnt firing === likely that two cylinders aren't firing.

checked spark in all 4, and they are all lighting --- hopefully strong blue spark (not weak orange sparks).

Putting around its fine after i get to maybe 2k rpms. any higher then 6 and it falls on its face. sounds like the spark is going out when i roll into it... looked at EVERY SINGLE connection on the bike, EVERY SINGLE ground....

If not already done, would obtain an official Kawasaki Service Manual, and study the trouble shooting section.

Engine performance depends on compression, fuel and ignition. And in this instance, all three may each need to be systematically addressed.

The simplified wiring seems okay, and should not in and of itself cause any of the reported problems.

Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 08 May 2014 21:59 by Patton.

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08 May 2014 22:12 #631889 by Patton
Z1 manual is very similar.

Here's a download:

kzrider.com/filebase/search/viewdownload...asaki-service-manual

Trouble shooting chart begins at page 146.

Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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08 May 2014 23:40 #631893 by bountyhunter
Replied by bountyhunter on topic Help me trouble shoot. Possable ignitor problem?

mayday119 wrote: Here are the symptoms.
~Lots of back fire, both at idle and under de-acceleration
~Low Idle (rough idle)
~If i roll into the throttle, once i go past 20% or so throttle, the bike begains to fall on its face and sputter with periods of Full acceleration mixed with de-acceleration.

Sounds lean. jets way off or vacuum leaks or both?

1979 KZ-750 Twin

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