plugs 1 and 4 black

Hi All

Probably a carb issue but posting here as its plugs we are looking at: As previously stated, I still have some hesitation under heavy acceleration. It appears to go away after running the bike for 1/2 hour or so. The bike also seems to about 3-5 min time to warm up and stabilize.

Here is what the plugs look like from left to right, sitting in the seat:

Number 1 is a bit black:



Number 2 looks OK to me:



Number 3 looks clean:




And # 4 is the blackest:



All that is after only about 100 KM (60 miles) running

Obviously I want to eliminate the easy things and progress from there.

What say you hive-mind? Post this in carbs?

Cheers
Chris

Err...anyone else not see the images? I posted the usual way..?

Plug 1:

Plug 2:

Plug 3:

Plug 4:

You may want to check the timing and condition of your ignition points. Cylinders 1&4 are fired from one set; 2&3 are fired from the other. Ed

Thanks!

650ed wrote: You may want to check the timing and condition of your ignition points. Cylinders 1&4 are fired from one set; 2&3 are fired from the other. Ed

I just had a Dyna installed by the dealer. Perhaps a coil is not getting good voltage. May explain why it seems to work better after 1/2 hour or so.

I'd check the input voltage to the ignition coils:


Testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils For Input Voltage

When voltage testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils, the following needs to be done:

1. Remove the fuel/gas tank to access the coils.

2. Fully charge the battery.

3. Using a multimeter, set it up for VDC(Volts, Direct Current), range of 20.

4. Turn on the ignition switch and the run/stop switch to “Run”.

5. Put the multimeter’s RED probe on where the red or red/yellow wire goes on the ignition coil.

6. Put the multimeter’s BLACK probe on either the battery Negative(-) post/terminal or a good frame ground.

7. You should be able to see battery voltage at the ignition coil connection, but this depends on the current draw of other items in the same circuit.

8. If the tested voltage is down to 8-9 volts, you probably need to clean the many and various electrical connectors.

9. To check the spark output at the sparkplugs, use Ignition Spark Testers. Instead of grounding the sparkplug with the sparkplug wire attached, looking for a spark. This method puts the IC Igniter and ignition coils at risk of failure due to high currents, and possible internal shorting.

These bikes have a 5000 ohm, non-replaceable resistor in the sparkplug caps. They go bad from heat, vibration and age. New ones are available at most Japanese motorcycle stores, or through Z1 Enterprises, Inc. - Specializing in Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Parts, including New Old Stock & aftermarket parts. www.z1enterprises.com is their website.

Well I made a jig to test the spark.



I put one wire up the plug cap and the other to chassis ground. Then used a caliper to measure between the tips. Adjusted till the spark would not jump across reliably, then dialed in to find max.

I could make a blue spark jump 10mm consistently. Spec says 5 or more is good to go. Looks like the business end is fine.

Went for another ride and the bogging went away much earlier on. 5 min or so from cold.

Filled up. On my last tank I got 6.1L / 100Km... 38MPG US. Probably 1/2 city driving and constantly honking it to look for my gremlin.

Pulled the plugs and 1 and 4 look a lot better. Looking brown-ish.

If it stays like this I think I am good.

Cheers
Chris