Open up Tach and Spedo on 77 KZ1000

Hi Guys

I would like to be able to clean some crud on the inside glass of my "clocks" (as they say in the UK.)

Is there a trick to opening these things up? I have the backs off but that only exposes the connectors for the lamps. To go deep inside it appears I need to bend open the crimped ring on the outside? Looks impossible to open without damaging the ring...?

I hope there is a simple secret to this...?

Thanks
Chris

I have seen a few threads devoted to this subject....you might try a forum search...but yeah, you hafta carefully pry them open!

chconger wrote: Hi Guys

I would like to be able to clean some crud on the inside glass of my "clocks" (as they say in the UK.)

Is there a trick to opening these things up? I have the backs off but that only exposes the connectors for the lamps. To go deep inside it appears I need to bend open the crimped ring on the outside? Looks impossible to open without damaging the ring...?

I hope there is a simple secret to this...?

Thanks
Chris

Chris,
Here is a link from a quick search in the forum.
www.kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/592799-8...lens-cleaning#623132

There is a link on the last past on how to take them apart. From what I have read, it is not an easy job, lots of patience is required. Once you get them apart you have to be careful removing the needles. An old trick is using 2 spoons from the kitchen, one on each side. Caution! The needle and other bits may depart the gauge quite rapidly so a spotter is advised. The rings are never the same again. A special machine is used to put them on during manufacturing. Resto.com I believe will do this for you, but its not cheap. They do quality work.

This link may be of interest:

Click > www.zresto.com/


Here's a diy option from an earlier thread ---

duncan wrote:
i've taken the tach apart but not the speedo. it's real easy if you use a dremel to cut the chrome ring, and then some jweld and hose clamp to cement it back together.

apeman wrote:
The old article suggests removing the band around the gauges by levering it up from the underside. I have found that results in too much damage to the band to make it look good after it is put back on, and crimped down. Therefore, I instead took a dremel with a cut-off wheel to the band, and sliced through it, being carefull not to damage the gauge cover. Then I slipped off the band, and did my gauge clean-up. To reinstall, I assembled the cover onto the gauge, slipped the band on, and held it tightly in place with a rubber band. Then I placed a drop of JBweld epoxy onto the gap in the band, and let it dry. (Make sure you mount the gap in the band at an location that will not be readily visible when the gauge is remounted onto the bike.) That has been working well for over a year.

Good Fortune!

Thanks Guys

As I feared, the problem is getting the ring off and back on without butchering it. Looks like z-resto has refined some tooling to do this properly; but $95 a pop is not in this years budget.

Crud on my glass is not looking so bad all of a sudden....

Cheers
Chris

I would spend the $95.00. I sent a set of Z1 gauges to Z-Resto and they came back looking and working like new. They had new glass, red line is not pink. :ohmy:

z1 enterprice has repo for 115 for the tech and 175 for the speedometer.....
most charge 90 for the restore and extra for extra parts and labor. if your gauges need parts it will total up preety quick.

I recently opened both my speedometer and tachometer to clean the inside of the glass lens on both gauges. I started out trying to pry the ring off the speedometer and quickly gave up on that path. instead I just cut across the ring on the bottom side with a dremel tool to slip the ring off. Then after cleaning the glass and reassembling the gauges, I drilled small holes on either side of the ring cut, inserted mechanics wire into the holes and then twisted the wire to make the rings snug again. After that I put on some RTV over the wire and cut gap. Since the wire job is on the bottom of each gauge someone would have to look for the repair to notice. Lots better than obviously dirty glass lenses.

If it helps, here is another way to open the clocks. Simple hand tools modified to use for this practice. A piece of PVC 4" pipe milled out to hold instrument, needle-nose pliers, flatblade screwdriver, tape, old Kaw Sprocket and Patience. Been doing these for years, way before the aftermarket faces/overlays were available. Never have had to cut the ring. No Spoons to pull-up the needle. The spoon trick is actually a Bad idea. Two E-clips are all that hold the needle shaft in alignment. Loading these e-clips can cause unseen damage. Hold the Drag-Cup off its resting limiter and Twist to loosen while pulling away from face. If reusing face, trim your fingernails to prevent scratching face or use painters tape. The sprocket is actually a Perfect fit for the Upper Can. The cut-out notch is for the crimping tool. This might be a bit too involved if you are only doing a single set but it's on the cheap. Plus it's fun to experiment! Then you can start Painting your Original Faces! Clay

Had mine done at Z-Resto, & they look & work like New,

asphalt900 wrote: If it helps, here is another way to open the clocks. Simple hand tools modified to use for this practice. A piece of PVC 4" pipe milled out to hold instrument, needle-nose pliers, flatblade screwdriver, tape, old Kaw Sprocket and Patience. Been doing these for years, way before the aftermarket faces/overlays were available. Never have had to cut the ring. No Spoons to pull-up the needle. The spoon trick is actually a Bad idea. Two E-clips are all that hold the needle shaft in alignment. Loading these e-clips can cause unseen damage. Hold the Drag-Cup off its resting limiter and Twist to loosen while pulling away from face. If reusing face, trim your fingernails to prevent scratching face or use painters tape. The sprocket is actually a Perfect fit for the Upper Can. The cut-out notch is for the crimping tool. This might be a bit too involved if you are only doing a single set but it's on the cheap. Plus it's fun to experiment! Then you can start Painting your Original Faces! Clay

Sorry, I don't understand what is the sprocket for. Could you explain a little mote?

Hello! The Sprocket "holds" the clock while you crimp. It just provides a stable base for this procedure. There is just enough room, after you wrap upper can with tape, to spin the clock while crimping. This way you don't end-up with a ring that bunches/bulges because of uneven pressure while doing this. Think Clock 12:00, 6:00, 3:00 9:00 a bit at a time. Then 1:30, 7:30, 4;30, 10:30. NOT completely crimping on first pass, just slowly tightening with each pass. Hope this Helps, Clay