Power loss caused by bad pick up coil?

300 wrote: Thanks for the interest Ed, what I'm trying to explain is that the bike lose the power it used to have a few days ago, it is a 550 but now it runs like a 250 or less, and it happened from one moment to another, it wasn't gradually, it revs ok it even feels good wen runnig but it does tht at half speed it used to reach.
Another thing I noticed earlier today wen I was testing the clutch is that I can't pass directly to second gear from neutral, I have to run it a bit on first gear and then shift to second gear.
Any idea ?

Not shifting directly into second gear unless the bike is moving is probably just the normal lockout working - not a problem. However, with the engine running ok but the bike going slower than normal I suspect a slipping clutch. Use the Kawasaki service Manual to properly adjust the clutch. If it still slips you'll need to take it apart. Don't try this without the manual. What motor oil are you using? Using the wrong oil can mess up the clutch. Ed

300 wrote: ... what I'm trying to explain is that the bike lose the power it used to have a few days ago, it is a 550 but now it runs like a 250 or less, and it happened from one moment to another, it wasn't gradually,,,,

If not already done, would:
Perform compression test.
Assure valve clearances within specs.
Read the plugs.
Observe spark quality on each plug.

Start cold engine and after a few seconds spray water onto exhaust pipes while engine is still running to determine which cylinders are combusting (water spray sizzles off pipe and instantly vaporizes).

Good Fortune!

In fact the spark test was the very first thing a tried an the result was ok, I'll try to do the compression test, how much pression should I have to consider it as a good compression ?

Sadly I don't have the manuals, even so I can handle the chlutch adjustment since I have changed the clable few times, yesterday I was adjusting it in every possible way, in the end the power/speed increases a bit but it stills feeling powerless

Please describe the adjustment procedure you are using and the motor oil you are using. Thanks, Ed

If you are using oil designed for a car, it may contain "Friction Modifiers", causing clutch slip. Oil is Oil is not true anymore. Read this:

JASO OIL SPECS:
Find an oil that shows the JASO-MA rating on the bottle; there are plenty of them available both dino and synthetic.

The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes. But, things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engines from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers."

These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not.

That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the JASO MA class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.

well i use the 3000 4T 20w50 Motul oil, i been using it since i have the bike ( around 2 years) and the metod i use to adjust the clutch cable is just strech the cable a bit (wen i put a new one) using the adjusting points in the lever and in the middle of the cable cover , then i squeeze the lever and make shure that the push-rod is moving, from there is a matter of feeling loosening an tighten the cable an the and the push-rod screw, it´s been like two months since i did that before the bike start showing the problem i have now.

What's the condition of the battery?

Thanks for asking Martin.
I will say the battery is fine, it is like six months old, the other day wen I was testing the pickup coils I used a lot , crank it several times with no problem at all, eventually it died after an hour (more or lees), then I did put it on the charger for another hour and worked just fine again.

hi 300, i did have a coil on a 750 once that would work fine when it was cold and at idle, but the minute I would try to accelerate or push it a bit, it would fail, leaving me with 2 cylinders firing. It would rev up fine in neutral, but under load it struggled. Both the windings on the coil checked out ok too with my multimeter.

Loss of acceleration power is relatively easy to diagnose if due to a slipping clutch (for whatever reason), which is usually very evident.

The rpm will increase (audibly) without the expected increase in road speed.
And the tach will show increased rpm while the speedometer remains constant.

Good Fortune!

To help rule out some of the possible reasons for loss of power, could perform a leak down test to better diagnose general condition of the engine.

A leak down test injects air pressure through the spark plug hole to pressurize the combustion chamber.

Can perform a poor man's leak down test by introducing compressed air into a spark plug hole and listening to where it escapes from the combustion clamber. This may be done at TDC or any other cam positions where both valves are fully closed. Top dead center (TDC) is when the piston is at its highest position. An easy way to tell TDC is by alignment of the T mark with the case mark when viewed through the timing window.

May introduce a spurt of compressed air by using a rubber cone-tip blow gun (rubber air nozzle) held into the spark plug hole. And of course keep holding it in position to keep air from coming back out the spark plug hole while listening for escaping air at other places. The air compressor should not be running while listening because the noise will likely drown out any sound of escaping air. Or just use a portable compressed air tank.

Air heard escaping from exhaust port indicates exhaust valve not fully closing (perhaps too tight clearance or damaged valve or valve seat).

Air heard escaping from carb intake indicates intake valve not fully closing (perhaps too tight clearance or damaged valve or valve seat).

Air heard escaping from crankcase breather indicates loss of compression past rings into crankcase (perhaps worn piston rings or cylinders).

Air heard escaping from head gasket area indicates indicates loss of compression past head gasket (perhaps due to a blown head gasket).

A leaking valve may sometimes be resolved by adjusting the clearance to within specs.

A leaking head gasket may sometimes be resolved by torquing the head fasteners when the engine is stone cold (such as after sitting overnight).

Good Fortune!