Brake Light Problem

Hey everyone
I finally got to ride again today after letting my bike sit all winter. Everything is working great except for the brake light indicator on the tach. It is constantly flashing on and off even when I'm not touching the brake. The actual brake light isn't turning on and off, just the indicator light. Anyone know why this might be happening? I'm very lost when it comes to electricals

Try replacing the brake light bulb. The flashing brake warning light indicates that there is a fault in the brake light circuit - it could be as simple as a burned out bulb.

The owner's manual should have a section explaining the warning light.

+1 They include a circuit that uses the low impedance of the brake light's filament (less than ten Ohms) to keep a circuit from causing that indicator to flash. When the brake light filament blows and that low impedance is no longer there, it flashes to warn you the brake light bulb is blown.

All good advice above.

Another way to interpret the flashing warning while cruising along is that it's telling you the brake light isn't going to come on when the brakes are applied.

Good Fortune!

Thanks for the replies. I've been riding the bike around all day and the light is functioning like normal. The light stays off until the brakes are applied and then the light turns on. It's just the indicator thats saying there's a problem. Is the indicator supposed to flash after the light is blown or is it a warning saying the light is about to be blown out?

Here's a link with some more details:
www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/53943...-what-is-this#539457

Good Fortune!

The om for my 81 650 says the indicator/warning light should illuminate when the brake is applied, but will then flash after releasing the brake if the bulb is burned out. As Patton indicated, the warning light is telling you that the brake light is out, so you could get rear ended.

Looks your like motorcycle in Avatar is a little newer than my knowledge span.
I have only touched Z1-KZ900 for 40 years.
But take a look at this. Started on the 74 Z1A and other Kawasaki's
But, of course do the connection cleaning at bulb socket, plugs and connectors associated with the rear
brake light circuit. Contact cleaner like Radio Shacks $$ de-oxit or Wellworth's A to Z cleaner.
cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&i...MESE:IT#ht_416wt_885

Just got it fixed. It was the part in Patton's link. The connection came slightly apart and needed to be pushed back together. Thanks for the help everyone

To greatly improve the electrical reliability of your bike, do this:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit DN5 electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website, and can be purchased at most electronic supply stores.

On the older Kawasaki's, and other makes, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit DN5 and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal response and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.


The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. If you discover the soldered connections at the switches are crumbling, I’ve got a repair procedure for this, just ask.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit DN5 and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........


“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “
From a forum member at www.kzrider.com


Re: Cleaning the many and various Motorcycle electrics.
I used the De-oxit D-5 spray on all the electrical connections of my 78 Kz1000 that had sat for twenty years .

When I parked the bike in 92 I was starting to have troubles with some of the electrical system, but after pulling everything apart and giving it a spray , reconnecting the connectors and working them back and forth a few times, then gave them another shot of spray to wash them off before the final reconnection.

Everything still works perfectly and has for over 7000 miles this year.

I am extremely happy with the results , a lot of the connectors were green when I started and after the cleaning they looked new ( shiny gold )

I found the Deoxit D-series, D-5 spray in a 4 oz can at a big electronics store called Frys in Illinois, don't get the small cans at Radio Shack , they are different and meant for computer type stuff.

store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.f

Trust MFolks , the guy's a true rocket scientist and really knows what he's talking about.
JD

Use Deoxit DN5 on new or restored electrical contacts to condition them against future corrosion. Deoxit DN5 dissolves oxidation and corrosion on metal surfaces, fills in microscopic gaps and reseals surfaces for better electrical conductivity.

VOC and RoHS compliant
Nonflammable, quick-drying, non-dripping, and safe on plastics
Reduces arcing, RFI, wear and abrasion

Brand: Caig Laboratories
Model: DN5S-6N

Specifications: Net weight: 5.75 oz. (163g)