HELP NO POWER!!!

Ok so finally got my project bike running by bypassing the kill switch(screwed the two ends together) well a few days later i came out to start it and the end of the kill switch touched metal sparked and blew my ignition fuse luckily the bike still had an original spare so i swapped it and it worked but it touched metal again while i was tryin to start it blew again so i went and bought new ones and now nothing no power at all the other two fuses are 10 amp and havent switched them out because the pack i got doesnt have 10A just 20 25 30 and 8 can i use a differnet size? Oh and my bike is a 1978 kz400A any help would be great thanks

I found physically similarly sized fuses at ace hardware. they fit in the fuse box clips. I've had a few of the old original fuses not work because one of the metal end caps on the fuse had twisted or moved a little, severing the connection inside. try your local auto parts store or hardware store to get a replacement fuse same day. if not, OEM Kawasaki fuses are still available if you're willing to wait to get them in.

You'll need to get a multimeter, and check where the power is and isn't. Se it for VDC(Volts, Direct Current, range of 20. The RED probe on the circuit being tested, and the BLACK probe on either the battery Negative(-) post, on a good frame ground(Earth, for some people).

I just went through this whole thing with my 550 fuses. If they're anything like the 20 and 10 amp fuses on the 550 you probably won't find them at any autoparts or radioshack. I had to order all of my new fuses from the Kawasaki dealer because the original fuses are an outdated style that isn't used anymore in new vehicles

The KZs used used an AGC or AGX fuse. I can't recall at the moment, but the fuses are
different lengths. They are difficult to locate but thier out there. Or you could convert
to the newer blade fuses. Seal up all electronics. Imagine it this way. Take the power
cord from any power tool or household appliance. Cut it and hold the bare wires in one
hand. With the other hand plug the cord into your power source ( wall socket, generator etc..).

.

Nebr_Rex wrote: ... Imagine it this way. Take the power
cord from any power tool or household appliance. Cut it and hold the bare wires in one
hand. With the other hand plug the cord into your power source ( wall socket, generator etc.)

Good Fortune!

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX, 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape. Sometimes, you can use the multimeter to see if power continues through the fuse.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:

www.waytekwire.com order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/...20%20%20%208%20FUSE/

www.rallylights.com www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=765

www.delcity.net/store/6!way-fuse-blocks/p_10822.a_1

10. A source for the glass tubed AGX fuses:
www.boatownerswarehouse.com/browse.cfm/2,4986.html

I'm Struggling similarly. Bike died on the rode, towed it home and the first thing I checked was the battery (reading 12.78 seems fine) and the fuses. Sure enough my lead fuse to ignition was blown. Had an extra and when I turned the ignition key it blew immediately.

Can I assume there is a short in the ignition key switch? I can yank it out an inspect the connections, but is there a test I should know about? This key is blowing the fuse, not the ignition button.

(Thanks, been following many of you for years silently and I finally asked a question! )

It may not be the switch; it could be a frayed wire shorting out. I would start by checking the wiring between the switch and the fuse. Ed

Okay, I will inspect the wiring first. Thanks!

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!
Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one(not both).

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go on/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

I guess i'll chme in on this thread as well; got my 33 yr old bike out for its first ride, and blew the main fuse , fortunately 1 1/2 blocks from home, (didn't have to push far). TY Mfolks sounds like a solid plan to follow. Thought I had it solved but got about a mile from home and it popped again, threw in the spare and made it most the way home. this aught to be a treat.