Starter inspection

Hello,

So I have non starting bike and I'm inspecting starter. I hear a click but starter won't rotate. I changed brushes and it rotated a bit but not again won't rotate. Checked all the resistances according to manual and all is fine, How the starter should behave if I remove it from bike and connect to battery directly because it only gives spark. And is it important to rotate crank to "T" mark before putting starter back?

When you have the starter off the bike you should be able to spin it by connecting it up to a battery.

Connect the positive battery lead to the starter's wire terminal and the negative to the starter housing. It should just about jump off the table.

If it doesn't spin there's still something wrong inside the starter.

Make sure the brushes are being pushed down on to the commutator by those springs. They can be tricky to get back on right.

Topper wrote: Make sure the brushes are being pushed down on to the commutator by those springs. They can be tricky to get back on right.

+1. Did mine a couple years back and it was a difficult time getting the brushes on correctly.
If all you have is a spark, that is an indication that there is a direct short inside the starter.

What do you mean by putting brushes correctly? Because it was easy, I removed springs put brushes in the housings put rotor in place and put springs back? By the way the first time I started after brush replacement I forgot to put clutch cover on and after some running I clutch stick comes out and lost bit of the oil. I turned of bike immediately. And now starter not even rotate I just hear click noise of the relay.

When I did mine, I placed the brushes on the plate under the springs, so the brushes were under pressure. The other end of the brushes are connected to the starter end cap (and the starter housing IIRC), so I was now holding 3 parts in my hands. I then slipped the plate with the brushes onto the commutator, which required me to pull back the brushes into the springs. Once I had each brush on the commutator, I slid the plate/end cap forward, making sure the slots in the plate lined up with the notches on the starter housing. Once the place was flush with the starter housing, I then finished sliding the starter end cap onto the shaft of the starter motor. I was then able to slip in the 2 mounting screws and finish bolting it up.
It has been a couple of years, but I am pretty sure that is how I had to do it.

Commutator seems to be worn. I guess I need new starter. Will GPZ one fit? What year, displacement?

Here's a list of new and rebuilt starter suppliers:
www.nationsautoelectric.com/Kawasaki.html
www.whitedogbikes.com/cat--Kawasaki-Star...-Starter-Motors.html
www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/starters.php
www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=HS-29 (Mitsuba SM-220)
www.motorcityreman.com/atv---motorcycle-...arters-kawasaki.html

Do these plates should be flat?

Because mine is grinded.

The commutator will show wear because the brushes ride on it. That is normal should not be a problem. It is a good idea to gently clean any carbon out of the little gaps in the commutator if there is any buildup. A toothpick can work ok. Ed

Ok so i repaired starter. It rotates directly from battery but when i put into bike i hear just click. But if i put into bike and connect from battery without relay it only rotates but not crank rotates just starter i hear. There is a disk it freely rotates to the left but not right.