Dyna s problem

Accell coils still could be the problem make sure they are the correct OHM rating if not they could be the cause of the burnt out Dyna pickup.

Maybe I missed it so ok, I'll ask the stupid questions...

Did you check/clean/confirm continuity/measure the quick connects from the Dyna plate to the coils....?

Did you perform the static test with an auto light (+12Vdc probe) verifying if it is indeed the Dyna ignition pickups...?

okay, thanks for all the help guys, im gonna borrow a voltage tester and test according to dynas module test method. if it turns out that this is the problem should i just replace? or is there a better option? i dont want to go back to points though lol.

holmes wrote: okay, thanks for all the help guys, im gonna borrow a voltage tester and test according to dynas module test method. if it turns out that this is the problem should i just replace? or is there a better option? i dont want to go back to points though lol.

Purely based on posts read, I see a lot of threads about dead Dynas and never read even one about a Kawi factory electronic ignition failing. The stock ones are not as fancy, but appear to be more reliable.

Not sure if there is kawi electronic that fits your engine, worth a look.

Check the connections and perform the same Static test @ the coil termination (connection) from the ignition plate.... Why worry about it now until confirmed if dead pick up or not. Verify the 2/3 coil conductor isn't frayed or broken open, confirm the connection is tight & clean.

Could be a simple connection, faulty conductor, coil termination at fault etc...

If finding it is a bad pickup, you could try and find a used Dyna ignition and swap sensors but me, Naw, replace all with new ignition plate. If one went bad for what ever reason, why gamble with another used & extremely important component.

Just my 2 crapsense....

I contacted Dyna via email tech support. I received this reply within 24 hours!
I did not see it for a couple of days, it was in my spam folder.
But here it is, just what I was hoping for:
Hello Martin.
The Dyna-S can be tested using an ohmeter that has an audible sound function
when set in the ohm test mode.
The black meter lead will attach to the Dyna-S plate. The red lead will attach
to the red Dyna-S wire and should have continuity. The white and then black
wires should both read open, or have no continuity. If it passes these tests,
it should be fine.
If you prefer, we are happy to test them for you at no charge. Please forward
your full name, address and telephone number so an RA number can be assigned.
Once this information is received, we will provide the RA number along with
shipping instructions. Please note that you will be responsible for returning
these units to us. We will test for free and pay the return shipping charge.
Thank you,
Larry Nelson
Technical Support
Dynatek
1-800-928-DYNA (3962)

Nice initial info, and if I send them to them, they will pay the return shipping!
I will do the check 1st. I have an audible multi tester.

bountyhunter wrote:

holmes wrote: okay, thanks for all the help guys, im gonna borrow a voltage tester and test according to dynas module test method. if it turns out that this is the problem should i just replace? or is there a better option? i dont want to go back to points though lol.

Purely based on posts read, I see a lot of threads about dead Dynas and never read even one about a Kawi factory electronic ignition failing. The stock ones are not as fancy, but appear to be more reliable.

Not sure if there is kawi electronic that fits your engine, worth a look.

I have blown several Factory modules, that is the reason I switched to a Dyna S. The Dyna S ignition is very reliable and cost effective. The only time I have blown up a Dyna is when I was doing a compression test and had not grounded out the coil leads. That will blow a module but that was my fault not the Duna S. I have had two factory pickup coils fail suddenly while riding the bike. I have also had a factory IC ignitor fail while riding. I do not trust 30+ year old electronics.

There's Loudhvx's ignitor replacement(usable only for bikes that had the mechanical ignition advancer):
home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Ignition/GPZgmHEImod.html

Dyna-S ignitions are darned reliable - but they can be killed...

They are susceptible to both high and low voltage.
- A failed regulator/rectifier will fry them., You can be pushing 18v or more through them... This is an easy test with a test meter across the battery terminals with the bike running. As you bring the RPM up, the voltage should cap around 14v
- Weak voltage at the ignition can hurt. Check the voltage at the coils to see if you have at least 11.5v.
- A bad battery can cause them to fail as well. They need a certain amount of voltage to fully charge components inside the modules - and if it's insufficient, they can overheat.

Not sure if you have this solved as of yet.............I had the same problem with a DYNA S on a KZ900. Check to make sure the coils mounts or any wires are NOT touching the frame. I had to space coils away from frame and this solved all my issues
Hope this helps

okay i tested with my light and at first it was lighting up right at the f mark for both of the pickups, but then i came back later and the 2/3 cylinder pickup was no loger lighting up at all.

and by the way jeff, i have had a bad regulator and bad battery in the last year.

im still working on getting ahold of a decent volt/ohmeter so i can do more complete testing

I think the bad regulators are what kill most of them. I've owned 20+ Z1/KZ's over the past 10+ years and most have needed new regulators, or already had new ones installed.

The low voltage at the coil is also key. If you don't have enough voltage reaching the coils and ignition, you won't get an effective spark.

That test is an easy one too. Check across your battery terminals, and a good battery will show better than 12.5v. Put the positive probe in the yellow/red feed to the coils (the double female connector under the tank that's the switched power feed to the coils) and put the other probe on the battery negative terminal. Turn the ignition on and the kill switch to run. You need to see 11v+ - ideally over 11.5v. If you don't, the bike will run rough. You need to clean all the connectors in the harness. The connector blocks and individual bullet connectors. The contacts inside the ignition switch are kill switch are more difficult to clean effectively - although sometimes just sweeping the key and knob from side to side will help clean the contacts. I've had bikes showing under 10v at the coils.

As a last resort there's coil relay modification (do search on forum for this) - I don't like this particularly as it's a Band-Aid rather than a fix - but it can help.