Ignition switch isues?

i have a 1993 KZP 1000. I went out for a lunch and got stranded when i tried to leave nothing comes on when i turn the switch. No neutral light no anything. I have gone over all the fuses and covered every connection as best i could several times from the battery on down. So am i right to suspect ignition switch? i searched the forum but couldn't find any method of testing the switch. i tried using a meter to check the wires coming from the back but i don't know what to look for. The key code for my bike never made it to me so is it easier for me to looked it up somehow or have the gas cape and seat lock changed to a new ignition? (Or just use two keys.

This happened to me. It ended up being the main harness ground wire not to be confused with the battery ground cable. Nothing would work, it was frustrating to say the least.

when my switch went out i just used two keys since i already had another ign switch But you can buy all three locks so you would only need one key.

i appreciate it ill check the wiring diagram and see if i can find it and if that is the problem.

Had a 74 Z1 that stoped in the middle of nowhere on a trip back in the day, that acted the same way. Turned out to be one of the wires on the back of the switch came unsoldered. Luckily found a mom and pop TV repair shop that soldered it back on and put us back on the road.
Lynn

If you've got the older glass tubed fuses, they may break at one end, but look good. I make a habit of replacing my bike's fuses before the start of riding season each year. AGX is the size of the fuse, AGC is the same diameter, but longer. I'd imagine 10,15, and 20 amp fuses are what you'll need.

Most auto parts stores can get them for you, and some boating supply places too.

lwalton47834 wrote: Had a 74 Z1 that stoped in the middle of nowhere on a trip back in the day, that acted the same way. Turned out to be one of the wires on the back of the switch came unsoldered. Luckily found a mom and pop TV repair shop that soldered it back on and put us back on the road.
Lynn

i did get a chance to check the solder joints and they all looked good. That is where i tried to check things with a meter.

I like this fuse box:

www.cwswiring.com/Shop.html

MFolks wrote: If you've got the older glass tubed fuses, they may break at one end, but look good. I make a habit of replacing my bike's fuses before the start of riding season each year. AGX is the size of the fuse, AGC is the same diameter, but longer. I'd imagine 10,15, and 20 amp fuses are what you'll need.

Most auto parts stores can get them for you, and some boating supply places too.

i learned this the hard way before. Took me an embarrassingly long time to find, actually just long enough for my friend to make it through L.A. traffic with my trailer to the Va hospital for me to short it and ride home lane sharing and him stuck. I now carry plenty of fuses and check them more thoroughly.

Fuses can burn and the wires come unsoldered from the back of the switch for the same reason. Bad, corroded contacts cause a lot of heat, the heat can actually melt solder or melt a fuse. So if you find a melted fuse or unsoldered wire, you have a cause. They don't just come unsoldered out of the clear blue sky.

4TheKZ1000 wrote: I like this fuse box:

www.cwswiring.com/Shop.html

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I use one of these they are great!

Solved
I took 4theKZ1000's reply and started looking at the wiring harness ground. On my bike the previous owner put a piece of diamond steel plate under the back seat, i think he said he wanted more shine on the bike. Anyway i don't know which grounds they were but from the main harness my bike has two grounds that run under this plating. Once i got under the plate and cleaned/tighten both grounds the bike is fine now. Thank you all for the help and fuse box information because Ive been wanting to over haul the electronics on this old beauty.