13volts at the coils start bike then I have 11volt

richard wrote: As stated above its a brand new wiring harness with 13 volts to the coil with the power on
start the bike and the wire leading to the coil is 13.5 idling ,slip the voltage gauge rite at the coil connection tab
and the reading is 11.2...why the huge drop...

Some kind of resistance must be making a voltage drop. Bad connection? ballast resistor?

What kind of voltmeter is it?

Some digital meters give false readings when they are hit with the kind of radiated EMI coming off coils.

If the readings are true, there must be some kind of resistance causing the voltage drop. It is Ohm's Law.

For comparative purposes, what are voltage measurements on the GS1100 at the battery and at the coils (1) at zero rpm, (2) at idle and (3) at 4000 rpm?

Good Fortune!

meter is high en FLUKE
no ballast resistor in the Z1 enterprises wiring harness for the 73
The GS in covered at the moment
If you idle your bike ,what does the coil read if the battery reads 13.5 at idle as a reference
if everyone is getting 11.2 then thats normal I guess

First, I would be alarmed if your voltage was over 14.7 volts. Period. The regulator is supposed to regulate, and is not doing its job. This is with both my GPz, which has an on-board voltmeter, and my GS1100E, which I tested thoroughly. Anything over that voltage will burn out connectors, bulbs, etc.

However, on to a GS voltage drop question, using my own 1983 GS1100E:
Patton:
(1) 12.7V
(2) 12.3V
(3) 14.4V

I tested these ad nauseum, and are valid results. Any significant deviations indicate serious issues. Either at the regulator, the coil relay (if it exists), or the wiring. The coil itself is just a voltage multiiplier, as we all know, and should not be a factor in the test results.

koolaid_kid wrote: . . . using my own 1983 GS1100E:
Patton:
(1) 12.7V
(2) 12.3V
(3) 14.4V
. . . .

Would be interesting to see whether richard gets similar measurements on his GS1100 at zero, idle and 4000 rpm.

Good Fortune!

Hi THE 83 84 GPz had a more updated regulator
my ELR with j1000 harness still climbs to 15 -16
are the voltage numbers shown on the GS at the coil or battery or both at the same time

richard wrote: . . . 1976 Z1 . . . .

Just to clarify, Z1 was discontinued after the 1975 model, and was replaced with the 1976 KZ900. Z1 and KZ900 had points for the stock ignition.

The electronic igniter style ignition (instead of points) appeared on the 1979 KZ1000-A3 (MK II) and KZ1000-D2 (cafe racer).

Good Fortune!

its neither
if you google cycle canada z1R you can see it
its a Z1R
body and frame
because it was easier to restore using common parts
I used all reproduction 73 900 wiring controls ,coils ect
then used kz1000j trigger plate and igniter,its a very common mod
just somewhere something is causing me grief in the electronics

richard wrote: its neither
if you google cycle canada z1R you can see it
its a Z1R
body and frame
because it was easier to restore using common parts
I used all reproduction 73 900 wiring controls ,coils ect
then used kz1000j trigger plate and igniter,its a very common mod
just somewhere something is causing me grief in the electronics

Nice article and a handsome Z1R (1978 KZ1000-D1).

While replacing points with the electronic igniter style ignition is a common mod, the stock 1978 Z1R coils (same as stock 1973 Z1 coils) should have imo been replaced with coils more suitable to the J model's igniter ignition.

Good Fortune!

still stumped
ran some 14 guage direct from battery to coils
same results ,engine running battery 13.5 volts
wire leading to coil 13.5
coils 11.2 volts ...with head light disconnected

richard wrote: still stumped
ran some 14 guage direct from battery to coils
same results ,engine running battery 13.5 volts
wire leading to coil 13.5
coils 11.2 volts ...with head light disconnected

Deja Vu post:

What kind of voltmeter is it?

Some digital meters give false readings when they are hit with the kind of radiated EMI coming off coils.

If the readings are true, there must be some kind of resistance causing the voltage drop. It is Ohm's Law.

Where are you picking up your ground for testing, battery neg lead, or frame?

Bon