Starter Issue? Hot Ignition Issue? Help!

I stand corrected, sorry. I reread the manual and it does say it should be "at or near battery voltage at idle". This puts me back in the category that my charging system appears to be checking out okay? I didn't check to see what the maximum voltage is at higher rpm. According to the manual it should only go up to about 15V, if it goes higher the regulator may be defective. Barring that, I'm likely just drawing more than the system can produce. Does that sound like a fair assessment based on the diagnostics? Or am I missing something else? Is it worth pulling the starter to be sure it is not on it's last legs and drawing more current when hot?

It's probably worth it, to pull the starter and see what condition the brushes and commutator are in. On some bikes, the carbon buildup can be enough to impact starter operation.

If not already done (and using a standard wet-cell battery), would have the battery load-tested, for free at wherever new batteries are sold, such as Walmart, AutoZone, etc.

To prep for an accurate load-test --
Remove the battery; add distilled water if needed to prescribed levels; and charge overnight at 1~2 amps, so that the battery is in its best possible condition when load-tested.

Have the battery load-tested as soon as possible after removing it from the charger.

Could also perform a specific gravity test on each cell. The little floating ball eye-dropper test is okay, and cheap.

Good Fortune!

Remember, you only have 20 amps to work with from the factory charging system. The Bikes stock electrical could easily draw 12. With the addition of Fans plural, you have added another 10+ for sure. Without seeing what you have there for fans and other equipment I can't say. Using an Amp Meter or Amp Clamp, you can measure the system. Or you can measure each component separately. But just a cheap, like $5 AMP meter will show you if you have more draw than charging current.

danwyke wrote: ... The one lingering issue I have is after a 20min+ drive the engine will not restart. After it cools off it fires right up so I'm fairly certain it's heat related and not a battery issue....

Such symptoms may result from insufficient valve clearances.

Good Fortune!

Well, went for an even longer ride and I'm pretty sure I still have cooling issues. When I got back I tried to restart and once again the fuel pump was cycling and couldn't start (no surprise since all I did was remove my AFR meter). I figured I'd check to make sure it isn't the starter or the valve clearance issue Patton mentioned by hooking up some jumper cables to my car. Sure enough the fuel pump started working normally and the engine fired right up. The issue is I'm not real interested in sinking more money into this engine to beef up the charging system if I can't keep it cool enough.

So let's recap. You started with this:



and ended up with ???? :blink: