weak spark

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20 Sep 2013 11:34 #607160 by mopguy
weak spark was created by mopguy
Have a weak spark on a 1981 KZ1000 LTD,put gas in pistons and engine will not fire up, how do I test for a) IC igniter damage, b) Pick up coil damage, c)Ignition coil damage. Thankyou for your input.

I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Ltd. I bought new. I recently managed to get it out of my garage after 28 years and put it on the road again (2010). I feel like a kid all over again. Since I have acquired 3 78 KZ1000 Ltd, 1 1981 KZ1000 Ltd, and another 1980 KZ750 Ltd. Love the LTD's.

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20 Sep 2013 13:01 #607169 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic weak spark
Do this check first:

Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

The pickup coils on the Kawasaki’s with the factory supplied electronic ignition can sometimes fail or become intermittent due to heat and vibration.

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(under a right side CD sized cover) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of X 100 check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

2.For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS.

3.If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.

4.A replacement set of pickup coils might be obtained from a dealer who serviced the police Kawasaki’s.

5. If replacement pickup coils are not available, your next choice would be to order a Dyna “S” electronic ignition system from www.z1enterprises.com It replaces the IC igniter with a smaller module located where the mechanical ignition advancer was mounted.

6.Checking with Kawasaki.com website has determined that the Pick up(pulsing) coils are available . The pulsing coil # is 59026-1133 and replaces the older # 1002, 1012 which were used from the MKII motors until the 2005 P24.


Also, if your ignition coils are original, they are probably past their useful life, replacement coils can be bought at www.z1enterprises.com from Dyna, and the Accel coils are popular too. New sparkplug caps should be installed, as they become intermittent with heat, age , and vibration.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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20 Sep 2013 16:42 #607191 by mopguy
Replied by mopguy on topic weak spark
Thankyou for instructions,my ignition coils are original, I will definetly shop for new ones.I have new spark plug wire caps. Hopefully this will get her to fire up.

I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Ltd. I bought new. I recently managed to get it out of my garage after 28 years and put it on the road again (2010). I feel like a kid all over again. Since I have acquired 3 78 KZ1000 Ltd, 1 1981 KZ1000 Ltd, and another 1980 KZ750 Ltd. Love the LTD's.

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20 Sep 2013 17:53 - 20 Sep 2013 17:57 #607196 by JR
Replied by JR on topic weak spark

mopguy wrote: Have a weak spark on a 1981 KZ1000 LTD,put gas in pistons and engine will not fire up, how do I test for a) IC igniter damage, b) Pick up coil damage, c)Ignition coil damage. Thankyou for your input.


I don't think putting raw gas in the cylinder will work. You need that gas air mix from the carbs. I think you would have a better chance of success using starter fluid sprayed in the air box.

To do the tests properly you will need the manual for the figures and also a multi meter. Without a manual there are still a few things you can do.

You can test voltage at the coils by taking the tank off. Each coil will have a red wire going to it. Disconnect a red wire, set meter at the 20V scale and connect one probe to the red and one probe to the frame or motor (ground). Turn on the ignition and you should see battery voltage (~12V).

You can test the primary and secondary resistance of the coils with the meter set at ohms but need the manual for the correct figures.

You can test the coil for internal shorts with meter set at ohms.

You can test the plug caps for resistance. Some have a 50k ohm resistance in them and they do go bad. Bad plug cap can read infinite resistance = open circuit.

You can test plug wires same way.

Hope this helps until the gurus get here.

1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust
Last edit: 20 Sep 2013 17:57 by JR.

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23 Sep 2013 21:09 #607493 by mopguy
Replied by mopguy on topic weak spark
Thanks JR.

I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Ltd. I bought new. I recently managed to get it out of my garage after 28 years and put it on the road again (2010). I feel like a kid all over again. Since I have acquired 3 78 KZ1000 Ltd, 1 1981 KZ1000 Ltd, and another 1980 KZ750 Ltd. Love the LTD's.

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25 Sep 2013 20:32 #607777 by mopguy
Replied by mopguy on topic weak spark
MFolks I tested the pickup coil with my multimeter set at 20K for Ohms as the next setting is 200K and I got .42 for blue/black and .45 for red/yellow, I guess this is within specs? JR I tested the red wire at the coils with the meter set at 20K and got readings of 9.8V for both coils, what does this mean?

I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Ltd. I bought new. I recently managed to get it out of my garage after 28 years and put it on the road again (2010). I feel like a kid all over again. Since I have acquired 3 78 KZ1000 Ltd, 1 1981 KZ1000 Ltd, and another 1980 KZ750 Ltd. Love the LTD's.

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26 Sep 2013 08:53 #607841 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic weak spark
Where battery passes the load-test, coils are supposed to receive same voltage produced by the battery.

Would determine and resolve voltage loss between battery and coils.




Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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26 Sep 2013 14:20 #607886 by mopguy
Replied by mopguy on topic weak spark
Thanks for the diagram Patton, will retrace wires when time permits.

I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Ltd. I bought new. I recently managed to get it out of my garage after 28 years and put it on the road again (2010). I feel like a kid all over again. Since I have acquired 3 78 KZ1000 Ltd, 1 1981 KZ1000 Ltd, and another 1980 KZ750 Ltd. Love the LTD's.

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26 Sep 2013 14:35 #607891 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic weak spark
I'd suggest doing this next:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit DN5 electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website, and can be purchased at most electronic supply stores.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit DN5 and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal response and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.


The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. If you discover the soldered connections at the switches are crumbling, I’ve got a repair procedure for this, just ask.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit DN5 and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........


“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “
From a forum member at www.kzrider.com


Re: Cleaning the many and various Motorcycle electrics.
I used the De-oxit D-5 spray on all the electrical connections of my 78 Kz1000 that had sat for twenty years .

When I parked the bike in 92 I was starting to have troubles with some of the electrical system, but after pulling everything apart and giving it a spray , reconnecting the connectors and working them back and forth a few times, then gave them another shot of spray to wash them off before the final reconnection.

Everything still works perfectly and has for over 7000 miles this year.

I am extremely happy with the results , a lot of the connectors were green when I started and after the cleaning they looked new ( shiny gold )

I found the Deoxit D-series, D-5 spray in a 4 oz can at a big electronics store called Frys in Illinois, don't get the small cans at Radio Shack , they are different and meant for computer type stuff.

store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.f

Trust MFolks , the guy's a true rocket scientist and really knows what he's talking about.
JD

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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26 Sep 2013 19:03 #607922 by mopguy
Replied by mopguy on topic weak spark
MFolks I will spend a day or two cleaning all contacts as you suggested and hopefully my IC Igniter is not damaged, will redo all tests after cleaning . Thanks, Tony.

I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Ltd. I bought new. I recently managed to get it out of my garage after 28 years and put it on the road again (2010). I feel like a kid all over again. Since I have acquired 3 78 KZ1000 Ltd, 1 1981 KZ1000 Ltd, and another 1980 KZ750 Ltd. Love the LTD's.

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06 Oct 2013 19:35 #608996 by mopguy
Replied by mopguy on topic weak spark
Started cleaning contacts and now I have a used IC Igniter that I want to install, is there a way of testing the IC Igniter before installing to see if it is good ?, as I dont want to install it and find out later it is a defective one. Thanks, Tony.

I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Ltd. I bought new. I recently managed to get it out of my garage after 28 years and put it on the road again (2010). I feel like a kid all over again. Since I have acquired 3 78 KZ1000 Ltd, 1 1981 KZ1000 Ltd, and another 1980 KZ750 Ltd. Love the LTD's.

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06 Oct 2013 23:39 #609025 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic weak spark
How To Test A Used Electronic Ignition

test BATT (+) to the red wire
BATT (-) to the backing plate

analog meter to measure a ac wave signal:
backing plate with 1 test electrode
and white or black wire with the other.

take a screwdriver and move it near to the pick up sensor coil you are testing and the needle will swing every time it sends a signal to the ignition coils thru the black and white wire.
OR
if you have a ignition coil to really test the system as a whole, energize 1 side of the primary inputs, ground main iron core, and put the white or black signal wire to the other primary ( negative) input and have spark plugs in the main wires and caps, grounded to the core of the coil.
move the screwdriver near the pick up coil and ZAP!

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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