dyna2000 help

OK..just finished a top end on my 900.. started right up on first push of the button, but ran poorly, as if not firing on two cylinders, poor throttle response and intermittant firing. It had that exact sound you get when say 1/4 are just along for the ride
So I went back thru the wiring to look for loose wires, all solid and good. I went thru and touched up the static timing, no big deal.
So then I went back to the dyna install sheets to see if I missed something. Triggers fine, etc...
When I went to check the triggered voltage at the coils, I get full12v voltage UNTIL it gets to the firing point at the crank trigger where it drops to 0, then back up to full till you come back around again. Same on 2/3. ...exact opposite if what it should be...
Any ideas here? Ran fine before take down ignition wise. Hoping its not a failed ignition module.
thanks!!!

I had a module go bad, and Dynatek replaced it after it was sent-in for testing.
Swap coil blue/white wires, and double-check everything else. If the problem switches to the other cylinders, you have pretty much isolated it to the module, and may want to call Dynatek to discuss the issue.

Talked with Dynatek, they didn't think that what I am describing is even possible with the module. I am going to go back thru this thing and double check everything that had my fingers on it during the top end, carbs, wiring connections, cam timing....
They said if all checks out send them the complete 2000 and they will test it....
gonna figure this one out...

If you send them your unit, you get a working one back in the mail regardless of whether your current one is working. Sounds like a reasonable first step to me.

auggiedog wrote: When I went to check the triggered voltage at the coils, I get full12v voltage UNTIL it gets to the firing point at the crank trigger where it drops to 0, then back up to full till you come back around again. Same on 2/3.

That is exactly what I would expect. That's how the factory electronic ignition works as well.

Remember, on a Kettering type ignition, the coil's negative side gets grounded to charge the coil, then goes back to battery voltage (after a very brief spike) to create the spark. When the coil is at rest, (not charging and not sparking), the coil will have battery voltage on both terminals. Then the negative one gets grounded to charge the coil.

The module can still be failed, but what you describe is to be expected.

Dyna's help line is pretty much in the dark about how their own products work. You would have to actually talk to their engineers to get real answers.

Thanks!!
This seems remotely familiar to me from back in high school automotive class....thanks for the flashback!!

In the back of my head, I kept thinking that somehow this does not seem out of place. and yet the troubleshooting section of the Dyna install specifically says I should get 0 voltage until the magnet triggers the ignition: "When the magnet on the crankshaft rotor is in front of a sensor, the output wire for that sensor (blue or white wire) should have +12volts on it. When the magnet is away from the sensor, its output wire should have 0 volts on it."



Opposite of the kettering type which is what is stock on the KZ, right? points, capacitor, etc... Yet, Dyna says you can use stock coils. Now I am wondering if both the tech guy and the install-troubleshooting might be backwards?
I am gonna look at the carbs while this dyna thing sorts out, I am wondering if even after draining them for a few weeks storage they got some crap in them...
Gonna ask for an engineer as well, get a better answer...
Thanks loudhvx.......

Found this on the katanna forum, aligns to what I am seeing as normal, ie voltage on the off at trigger...and what seems to be the Dyna set-up...
wouldove to hear if anyone with a dyna2000 gets the same voltage situation..??
any comments?

The coils are a wasted spark coil = when triggered, both plugs spark.

They do "technically" have a + and - marking on them. This is to designate that there is a primary and secondary coil inside. This is how the coils work...

Power is supplied permanently via the orange/white stripped wires (KZ RED) to one of the circuits in the coils. This creates an electrical field inside.

Power is supplied via the black wire, or white wire (Dyna Blue and White)to the other circuit in the coils. This also creates an electrical field.

When the signal generator sends it's signal to the ICM unit (also called CDI by some) that is then adjusted by the ICM for the "curve" of the timing based upon RPMs, and then it triggers the apporpriate coil by cutting power to the black or white wire temporarily. The sudden drop of one field, causes the other one to collapse, and the voltage spike is grounded out the spark plugs (spark).

OEM setup it does not matter which circuit collapses for the most part... both will cause a spark.

It's very important that the power to the field that collapses be at least 11v though fyi... or the spark won't be strong enough and can cause start/running issues.

auggiedog wrote: ...the troubleshooting section of the Dyna install specifically says I should get 0 voltage until the magnet triggers the ignition: "When the magnet on the crankshaft rotor is in front of a sensor, the output wire for that sensor (blue or white wire) should have +12volts on it. When the magnet is away from the sensor, its output wire should have 0 volts on it."

That quote is true for a Dyna S or a Dyna III.
The Dyna 2000 is a different beast, or actually, a much smarter beast.

The Dyna 2000 controls the dwell digitally based on RPM. If there is no crank movement, the 2000 should not energize the coils (ground the negative-side). When the crank rotates, the Dyna 2000 will calculate when to energize the coil (ground the negative side) to get proper dwell, then will lift the ground in order to create the spark at the right time.

The Dyna S and Dyna III do no such calculations. Basically they energize the coil almost all of the time. That is, whenever the magnet is not near the pickup, it energizes the coil (grounds the negative side). This happens whether the crank is turning or not. When the magnet moves away from the pickup, it lifts the ground, thus creating a spark.

Maybe they accidentally put the troubleshooting procedure for a Dyna S or DynaIII into a Dyna 2000 manual.

That makes sense.....
Thanks Dude...
On to the carbs!

auggiedog wrote: The coils are a wasted spark coil = when triggered, both plugs spark.

They do "technically" have a + and - marking on them. This is to designate that there is a primary and secondary coil inside. This is how the coils work...

Power is supplied permanently via the orange/white stripped wires (KZ RED) to one of the circuits in the coils. This creates an electrical field inside.

Power is supplied via the black wire, or white wire (Dyna Blue and White)to the other circuit in the coils. This also creates an electrical field.

When the signal generator sends it's signal to the ICM unit (also called CDI by some) that is then adjusted by the ICM for the "curve" of the timing based upon RPMs, and then it triggers the apporpriate coil by cutting power to the black or white wire temporarily. The sudden drop of one field, causes the other one to collapse, and the voltage spike is grounded out the spark plugs (spark).

OEM setup it does not matter which circuit collapses for the most part... both will cause a spark.

It's very important that the power to the field that collapses be at least 11v though fyi... or the spark won't be strong enough and can cause start/running issues.

The terms used in that quote are a little vague. They should say specifically where voltage is applied or removed, or where current is flowing or stoopped. One could argue power is supplied by the battery to the positive connection to the coil. It could also be argued power is supplied by the Dyna since it switches the current on and off. The above quote seems to say both at different times. By describing the switching of a connections, it is clearer to the reader what is happening.

Incidently, the type of ignition we are talking about is not a CDI, as mentioned in the quote. That stands for capacitive discharge ignition, and works on a completely different principle.

I looked up the pdf for the Dyna 2000 to look at the full text for that troubleshooting step.
www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support...s/DDK1-5_2-1_3-2.pdf

They are describing the voltages on the sensors, not at the actual ignition coil.

Out of context, I thought "output wire for that sensor" meant the coil wire controlled by that sensor. But they actually mean to measure the voltage on the actual wire connected to that sensor, which does not go the coils. It goes to the Dyna 2000 control module.