KZ200 Stalling

Before ordering a new coil, check what the voltage is across the coils primary side. Thats the 2 small wires, compared to battery voltage, see what it it at the coil. The coil multiplies the voltage given, so if low the spark will also be low.

In addition to checking Motorhead's suggestion, you may need to inspect the points.

Those "weird" symptoms can just be from worn out points. Have they been replaced?

If so, my buddy has been complaining recently that a lot of points coming from China not useable. The construction is shoddy and allows too much slop to where they only fire randomly. He showed me how the drilled holes are actually oval instead of round. They were pretty crappy.

If you can, try to get genuine Kawasaki points and condenser.

Beware of the ebay sellers. One shady guy said he would only include one original packaging box if you bought 4 or more sets of points. WTF? Each one would come in a box if it was truly a factory part.

Well, I hooked the voltmeter up to the coil, this is the result:


Also, we had cleaned up the spark plug last night, and after running for less than 1min, the plug was black again.

loudhvx wrote: In addition to checking Motorhead's suggestion, you may need to inspect the points.

Those "weird" symptoms can just be from worn out points. Have they been replaced?

If so, my buddy has been complaining recently that a lot of points coming from China not useable. The construction is shoddy and allows too much slop to where they only fire randomly. He showed me how the drilled holes are actually oval instead of round. They were pretty crappy.

If you can, try to get genuine Kawasaki points and condenser.

Beware of the ebay sellers. One shady guy said he would only include one original packaging box if you bought 4 or more sets of points. WTF? Each one would come in a box if it was truly a factory part.

points is where my mechanical aptitude fails me. I don't understand points, ima have to read up some more before I delve into that.

In a nutshell, points are used to allow the coil to charge for a given period and then fire the spark plug(s) at a specific time relative to the position of the crankshaft. The points simply make and break a connection between the coil and its power source. There is a little cam on the timing advancer that opens and closes the points. Adjusting the points requires the specs from the manual and some tools. Points must be adjusted two ways.

One adjustment is the points' gap. This is the distance between the two contact points at their widest opening. The gap is what determines the "dwell." The dwell is the period, measured in degrees of crankshaft rotation, that the points are closed. It is during this period that the points allow the coil to build up a charge. When adjusting points, the gap (dwell) should be set first. If the gap is set too wide, the points are open too long and the coil won't charge long enough; if the gap is too narrow the points stay closed too long and the coil will charge too long which may shorten its life, too narrow a gap can also cause the points to stay too hot and pit prematurely. The points gap is set with the engine turned off using a feeler gauge when the points are at their widest opening. Fine tuning of the gap can be performed with the engine running using a dwell meter.

The second adjustment is the timing of exactly when the points begin to open relative to the crankshaft rotation. The instant the points open the coil will fire the spark plug. So it is critical that the points open when the piston is at the correct position, otherwise the engine will run poorly and under some conditions can overheat. Setting the timing can be done with the engine turned off using an analog ohm meter or other tool that shows exactly when continuity between the points breaks. The point plate can be rotated so the points open just when the "F" mark on the advancer aligns with the pointer on the engine case. Fine tuning of the timing can be performed using a timing light with the engine running.

Over time, points will tend to develop little pits and bumps where metal from one contact point will sort of weld itself the the other contact point. This may happen more quickly if the condenser is not working properly, but it will eventually happen no matter what. Those pits and bumps will negatively affect the accuracy of the gap and timing, so points should be replaced periodically. My experience has been that they last for 5,000 - 8,000 miles before needing attention. Ed

The measurement for Voltage should be with engine off. When your running and hooked up as you were you are getting a lot of rising voltage before each spark making the meter read weird.
Try engine off, key on, and measure across the coil + and the battery - compared to both battery terminals + -, still engine Off.

Thanks Ed, I did measure the gap with my feeler gauge the other day when we did the timing check/valve clearances, and it was within spec. I'll have to see if I can source a dwell meter

Motor Head wrote: The measurement for Voltage should be with engine off. When your running and hooked up as you were you are getting a lot of rising voltage before each spark making the meter read weird.
Try engine off, key on, and measure across the coil + and the battery - compared to both battery terminals + -, still engine Off.

I measured without the bike running (engine off/key on) and the battery reads 12v and the +/- on the coil came back with no read... so that's why I checked it running... I'll test next time off the +coil and -battery.

Thanks!

It probably came back with no Read across the coil terminals because the points were open at the time. The points ground the coil, or battery -,then as the motor rotates the points open. This charges the coil primary, then when open the energy is released in the coil secondary/ spark.
The video makes the bikes motor sound like its got a noise. Have you done a compression test?

If not already done, would assure that the petcock tubes up inside the fuel tank are clean, clear and unobstructed.

If the petcock intake tube screens are obstructed, the gasoline flow could be very weak, whereby the float bowls would be gradually filling during the engine's "cooling off" time, which would then allow another short period of engine running until the float bowl emptied.

Good Fortune!

Motor Head wrote: It probably came back with no Read across the coil terminals because the points were open at the time. The points ground the coil, or battery -,then as the motor rotates the points open. This charges the coil primary, then when open the energy is released in the coil secondary/ spark.

aah, that makes sense

The video makes the bikes motor sound like its got a noise. Have you done a compression test?

I haven't done a compression test yet (don't have the tool yet). The idle is set quite high right now - mostly because I can't get the bike to warm up and stay running long enough to set it properly - so that may be why it sounds like it's got a noise, it actually sounds WAY better than it did before we did the valve clearances.

Patton wrote: If not already done, would assure that the petcock tubes up inside the fuel tank are clean, clear and unobstructed.

If the petcock intake tube screens are obstructed, the gasoline flow could be very weak, whereby the float bowls would be gradually filling during the engine's "cooling off" time, which would then allow another short period of engine running until the float bowl emptied.

Actually the petcock was seized in the 'open' position, so it has been removed, un-seized and thoroughly cleaned along with the rest of the fuel lines… we even used the air gun to clean out the tank a bit


I spoke with the previous owner last night, he thinks that the carb needs tuning so I'm gonna give that a shot tonight and maybe see about a compression test… If I can manage the test, what sort of result should I be expecting? where would i find that in the manual?

Thanks again!

Compression test came back at 125psi (spec is 195 if memory serves). Carb float needs adjusting, so it's in my kitchen right now LOL
What does one do about the low compression?

195 sounds too high for spec, and 125 sounds like it is acceptable. I don't have a KZ200 manual, but for the KZ650 the spec is 156-185 and the service limit is 114. Double check your Kawasaki Service Manual, but I suspect your bike's compression is fine at 125. Ed