Handlebar control restoration

Has anyone done a restoration on the handlebar controls for a KZ? This old 78 has junked up controls, black paint flaked off and some broken buttons.So that brings me to the question, does all 1978 KZ models utilize the same handlebar controls ? I hope so because that would broaden the opportunity to find replacements .

If your not going for a completely original stock restoration it may be easier to go with aftermarket replacements. Z1Enterprises sells them. You should call and ask them if these will work for your specific application before ordering. They could tell you of any differences you may run into. Internal/external handlebar control wires and such.

www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...Z900&item=EM99-68891

www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?i...Z900&item=EM99-68892

If you go that route I may be interested in your old switches. I'm a sucker for original and if yours are able to be saved might be up for it. My bike has the right side switch linked to above. Works perfectly....looks very close to original....but is still different.

Another source...plus some info and better pics....

www.redlinecycle.com/Handle%20Switch.html

I haven't made up my mind for sure which path i'm going to take with this old relic.It sure would be nice to get it back in stock form.I'm in no hurry so if it takes me a few years then that's what it does.Sure would be a cool piece back in stock trim.

Any luck having your switches restored? I'd just like to find somebody to paint them.

It's really not that hard to do, as you take them apart take a lot of pictures.
I used paint stripper after I removed all of the switches.
The most important thing I learned was to make sure all of the paint was removed from the lettering.
It takes a while to do, but when you go to repaint the lettering it make a big difference.
Before you put them back together spray the switches with contact cleaner, I got a spray can at Radio Shack.
You can do it!

MTH76 wrote: It's really not that hard to do, as you take them apart take a lot of pictures.
I used paint stripper after I removed all of the switches.
The most important thing I learned was to make sure all of the paint was removed from the lettering.
It takes a while to do, but when you go to repaint the lettering it make a big difference.
Before you put them back together spray the switches with contact cleaner, I got a spray can at Radio Shack.
You can do it!

That's probably what I'll end up doing. The only part I'm worried about is getting the lettering correct. I've never been able to paint anything that small with much success.

Any idea what type of paint works best and is close to original? I'm thinking those little testors bottles maybe? I guess I'd need white and yellow...maybe red too.

I did a couple sets.











You can buy this paint at a craft store. After the black has completely dried, fill the letters with the correct paint ONE WORD at a time. Quickly use a small damp sponge to remove excess paint. If some color dries on top just touch up with black and a detail brush after everything has dried. Spray some paint into a cup but LET IT SIT a few minutes before you brush it on, the chemical thinners in the aerosol will remove the finish on the part.



Clean and grease all the moving parts







Plastic Renew

Wow do those look great! Nice job. Which PJ1 paint did you use? I have some of the satin black engine paint now.

wow they look great

Kidkawie wrote: I did a couple sets.

You can buy this paint at a craft store. After the black has completely dried, fill the letters with the correct paint ONE WORD at a time. Quickly use a small damp sponge to remove excess paint. If some color dries on top just touch up with black and a detail brush after everything has dried. Spray some paint into a cup but LET IT SIT a few minutes before you brush it on, the chemical thinners in the aerosol will remove the finish on the part.

Clean and grease all the moving parts

Plastic Renew

Thanks. For the first set I used PJ1 Fast Black Gloss, it's more satin which looks more factory. The second set I used VHT roll bar & chassis gloss black. It's similar to the PJ1 not being real glossy. I had to always order the PJ1, the VHT you can easily get at Advance Auto.

Came out great for sure. I never paint anything, but a long time ago someone mentioned painting the black and doing basically the same procedure, but instead of a wet sponge, use a rag or whatever with mineral spirits to clean off any excess paint while doing the lettering. The mineral spirits is not too harsh, and if the black, which should be semi gloss or chassis black is fully cured it won't be harmed resulting in nice clean letters. I've never done it, but worth considering.