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Tachometer and speedometer lights out.
- tooltyme
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10 Aug 2013 13:07 #600688
by tooltyme
Tachometer and speedometer lights out. was created by tooltyme
Hi all new to the site here. Just bought a KZ650/B3. Was told everything on bike was fine other than the horn didn't work. Only other problem found is the lightbulbs in the tach/speed gauges don't work.
Opened them up and bulbs appeared to be black and blown. Replaced them with #53 bulbs that were suggested on a few different sites. Still did not work. Checked fuses next one appeared blown. After not able to find original fuses, many sites said they replaced fuse box to make it standard fuses. Did that everything working the way it was just no gauge lights. What is my next step??? Checking voltage in the socket holder for the bulb I assume. Have not done that yet. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks TJ
Opened them up and bulbs appeared to be black and blown. Replaced them with #53 bulbs that were suggested on a few different sites. Still did not work. Checked fuses next one appeared blown. After not able to find original fuses, many sites said they replaced fuse box to make it standard fuses. Did that everything working the way it was just no gauge lights. What is my next step??? Checking voltage in the socket holder for the bulb I assume. Have not done that yet. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks TJ
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- 650ed
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10 Aug 2013 13:44 - 10 Aug 2013 13:47 #600692
by 650ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Replied by 650ed on topic Tachometer and speedometer lights out.
No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationWelcome aboard! Somebody gave you bad information; #53 bulbs aren't correct for the KZ650. They are 14.4v / 1.7w, the instrument bulbs in the KZ650 are Stanley 12v / 3.4w. That's not to say there may not be another problem, but I would start by installing the correct bulbs (see eBay listing below for picture of correct bulbs). Standard fuses are available, you can buy them at Pep Boys. I would not start by changing the fuse holder or anything. I would start by installing the correct bulbs. If they work you're done. If they don't work check the fuses using the meter (don't just look for a broken fuse filament because sometimes the metal caps separate from the filament leaving it looking perfect). If the fuses are fine start tracing the circuit from the bulb socket end using the meter and wiring diagram. Ed
Here's a link to the wiring diagram for your KZ650-B3.
diagrams.kz650.info/wiring/images/KZ650-B3,C3.jpg
Here's a link to the wiring diagram for your KZ650-B3.
diagrams.kz650.info/wiring/images/KZ650-B3,C3.jpg
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Last edit: 10 Aug 2013 13:47 by 650ed.
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- koolaid_kid
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10 Aug 2013 16:01 #600703
by koolaid_kid
1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
Replied by koolaid_kid on topic Tachometer and speedometer lights out.
It sounds like you need to check the output voltage of your regulator. If the regulator is not functioning correctly, you could be outputting 15-16V instead of the more normal 14.5V. That would blow bulbs and such.
1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
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- RonKZ650
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13 Aug 2013 00:26 #601157
by RonKZ650
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
Replied by RonKZ650 on topic Tachometer and speedometer lights out.
53 bulbs work OK but will not be bright as the correct bulbs Ed mentioned. Common problem for "T" splices in the harness to break and lose either the ground or power to the guage bulbs. So check and see if 12v going to the bulbs and if so, ground on the other end. Of course 12v on both ends of the bulbs means you've lost ground, 0v on both ends means you lost power. If either of these are the case, easier to just add a single wire to a good source of ground or power depending on which is lost, otherwise digging into the harness I would not personally do, but if you feel lucky, go ahead. They crimp 3 wires, 1 in, then 2 out. The weak spot will be where the wires are squished in a crimp, vibrate over time, then break right at the crimp.
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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