No rpm/speedo lights

77 kz1000. I have the idiot lights but both clocks nothing. I pull the the rpm gauge out bulbs are fine. no power
Any suggestions before I have to tear the gauge cluster and headlight off

That is very weird. Assuming it is stock, the wiring for lights in the speedometer and tach are in the same little harness as the lights for the turn signals and idiot lights. You may want to test the pins in the connector feeding the lower end of the little harness (see arrow) to see if you have power there. Keep in mind, that you'll need to figure how many pins should normally have power (i.e. turn signals normally won't unless flashing). Ed

More info....
The part number for the meter wiring harness (shown as #11 in diagram above) is the same for the KZ1000-A1 as the one for the KZ650-C1. Below is a blow-up of the section of the KZ650-C1 wiring diagram that shows the colors in the harness and the one feeding it. The blue wires to the meters should be the hot ones; black/yellow normally are ground. Using that info may help you see if you have power at that 9-pin connector. Ed

No power. Also no power at the 4 pt plug behind the left side cover

On the KZ650-C1 that circuit comes off a 10amp fuse. Have you checked all the fuses carefully using a meter? I ask because sometimes the little metal caps on the glass fuses loosen up and break the circuit even though the filament is ok. Also, when you turn on the headlight do the front running lights (in the turn signal lenses) come on? I ask because it appears they are powered by the same circuit. Ed

There is no power going into the fuse red/blue to brown. With headlight on, no running lights via blinkers.
By the wire diagram this seems to be link to the right hand switch yes/no? I did send off the right hand switch to my buddy who disassembled paint and put back together.

From the owners manual.
The head, tail and meter lights come on if the switch is pushed forward to the ON position with the ignition switch in the on position.

oh boy

I think you may have pretty much found it. In the KZ650-C1 diagram below (and your bike's switches may be very similar) notice that circuit controlled by the headlight switch branches into 2 circuits at or very close to the switch (I put a red oval around the branch). One of those 2 circuits goes to the 10 amp fuse that powers the running lights and tach/speedometer lights. I would try to find where that branch connection is and see if it's hooked up. Ed

Ed
Thanks for all the help. One more thing. Can you post a photo of that complete wire diagram. I am trying to red the little one in back of owners manual.
cheers
gregz

Included in KZr FILEBASE:

www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/267-z1000a1

Good Fortune!

Be sure to use the diagram Patton provided as it is specifically for the KZ1000-A1. The sections I provided were form the KZ650-C1 diagram, so there are differences, although I believe the general layout of the meter harness to be similar. Ed

Todays update. Nothing new. Worked on them all afternoon. Electrical issues suck. Plus slammin cold beer all day doesn't help. I pulled headlight again. plugged in a complete set of z1 gauges and turned key woo-la I have gauge lights. Preceeded to pull my gauges off replace all four bulbs plug in nothing check wires install. I'm done with it. As long as I have hi/low ,blinkers taillight fine with me
One other thing. Bad memory but I'm sure I replaced front indicators with better chrome. Bike was a barn find so prolly old indiacators rusty. front bulbs are single filament and duel filament will not fit. Little prongs ore offset if this bike should have them for running lights. Make since ?? i'm drinkin
All I know is a real Kawasaki should be delivered here in a few hours. screw these kz's Z1's baby
Nabbed another 73
Time to go back out to the garage drink beer and smoke some cigs

They run these T joints for power and/or ground throughout the harness. They are basically just one wire in, then a crimp to two wires, so two wires out. These can and do break and one leg gets no power or ground. You can dig in the harness to find the culprit, but easier just to see what you are missing. If you are missing power, parellel a single wire from a good point of power, if you are missing ground, parellel a single wire to a good ground. Bypass the stupid T. Not a concours resto type repair, but a quick and easy bypass without breaking open the harness.