Is there a different plug gap with a Dyna Ignition

Running into some electrical issues with my 79 KZ650. Can't get the bike to start. I just replace the spark plugs and am getting spark and have the plugs set to .030 (recommended .028-.031). Thought it might be the timing gap issue so I took off the cover on the engine to check it out. Saw that there is a fairly new Dyna S ignition installed which means no time gapping (correct?), and have heard rumor that you may need to have a larger gap in your plugs with this. Any comments greatly appreciated.

Yes! wider. run them at .040

Is it possible the wires are on the wrong cylinders?

The bike should start with any plug gap, that is not your problem. Are you getting spark, fuel, what is the compression, did it ever run correctly?

I thought about this also, so i doulble checked and the coil wires are on the correct cylinders.

Baldy110- I am getting spark, There is fuel getting to the carbs, not sure what the compression is. How would I check that? It did run before. I recently purchased it and took it out for a ride when I found that the battery was shot in the middle of my ride. Took it to a shop and had it checked to make sure it was completely shot. When I put the new battery in I kept on blowing fuses and bulbs, so I took a look at the wiring and it was a nightmare. For ex. there would be 2 larger gauge wire splitting into 1 smaller gauge, smaller gauge going to larger than smaller again all in the same line. Green wire going to black, than to red, than to blue, no color coordination at all with anything. So I downloaded the wiring diagram for the bike and copied down a diagram of the way the current wiring ran so i could be sure to get power to everything after cleaning it all up and making sense of things. When I tried to start the bike it would not turn. So i checked the plugs for spark and they were getting spark and good arc, but all of the spark plugs were dark back. So i looked up what that meant and found that it meant too much fuel running into the carbs with the fuel to air ratio. So i did some research to see how i can fix this without a carb sync tool and let the air holes out a half turn. in the air holes on the carbs covering the screws was grease. In order to get to the screws i had to pull the grease out (Could not having this grease over the screws in the air holes be creating a vacuum problem?) After being finished I also changed the spark plugs and set them to .030. Now the bike will not start. Just a reminder... I am getting power to everything, fuel is getting to the carbs, and I am getting spark. The bike will not start with the push button ignition or by kicking. Oh and I also tried pouring a teaspoon of gas into the cylinders and starting it. Still nothing.

Three things required to run
1). Fuel (in correct ratio to air)
2). Spark (at the right time)
3). Compression (more is better... to a point)

Regarding plug gap...
The first thing I learned hanging turbos on everything is you must have good ignition if you want any engine to run good. Excessive plug gap is a good way to find your ignition systems limitations. On the tech line at a turbo kit manufacturer I had countless people who put kits on without tightening the plug gaps, to compensate for stock ignition systems.
As boost or compression raises the resistance of the plug gap! It blows out the candles!
I have a turbo KZ with an MSD 6AL and I run .025 plug gap! Runs facking awsome! 30lbs of boost.
My '92 crown vic (no turbo) specs plug gap at .046" to .052", fuck that!
After tightening the gaps up to .025" I realized an increase from 22mpg to 24mpg on the highway.
I also cut back the ground electrode to the middle of the center electrode to "unmask it".
This is especially good for nitrous and turbo bikes as it shortens the heat path on the ground electrodes reducing preignition and detonation tendencys.

Just my experience.
You MUST have a good battery too.
Also on high HP systems you MUST keep the primary ignition wires isolated from everything else, straight from owner of Dyna.

gearheadmm wrote: Regarding plug gap...
... Excessive plug gap is a good way to find your ignition systems limitations.

...As boost or compression raises the resistance of the plug gap! It blows out the candles!

I agree. While a wider spark gap can sometimes liven up a motor, if the ignition system is not up to the task, it will run worse. When the gap gets wider, the duration gets shorter (and the resistance goes up). At some point, increasing the gap will make the spark find other paths to discharge through, so you my get no spark at all, and in the worst case, that other path will be inside the coil or inside the igniter... then it's time to buy new parts.

That said, for a stock compression motor with new coils and a good igniter, .040 is probably fine.

Real easy way to find out if it is an ignition issue. Spray starting fluid into the carbs as you crank it over. If it starts your ignition is not the problem. An old school trick To check compression without a compression tester is to pull all the spark plugs, (disconnect the red wire going to the Dyna S otherwise you will blow a pulse coil) put a finger tightly on a spark plug hole, open the throttle to full and crank over. If your finger blows off the hole you have enough compression to start and run. And no the grease in the pilot screw holes is also not your problem.