need wiring help/advise

I need some help on which way to go in diagnosing my major electrical issue with my z1r. Im not very good with wiring. i have a multimeter and know how to check for power and resistance.

i have the z1r wiring diagram from the clymer manual as well as the one patton posted on another thread. I just dont understand it very well. Im a pipefitter and understand current will follow the path of least resistance and all that jazz.

here is what i got.

I put a new battery in and have power running through my main 20 amp fuse. from there is runs to the ignition switch. when i turn the ignition switch on i have power the nuetral and oil light. nothing on anything else.

i checked the two 10 amp fuses and nothing on either one of them. I have no power anywhere else.I dont understand where the power is coming from to get to the two 10 amp fuses.

I understand i have basically the whole bike to check out. just dont know how to go about it or where to start. I have read MFolks wiring write up about cleaning the wiring system and did that when it was totally stripped down. I cleaned everything really well.

thanks for any advice.
Aaron

one more thing real quick.

When i got the bike it was not running. had no battery. so i dont know what im dealing with here. I thought about just buying a new wiring harness just to save alot of headaches but the old one isnt in that bad of shape. there are a few spots that repairs have been made but overall not bad. The other electrical components, i dont know.

thanks
Aaron

If you're somewhat familiar with using the multimeter, I won't go into specific details, but I'd open up the right handlebar switch pod, looking for failed, or failing solder joints on the run/stop switch. This is the power source for the ignition coils, usually a RED or RED/Yellow wire, going to both igntion coils.

If the solder joint looks good, inspect for corrosion, or insect nests, as this has been reported in inactive bikes.

A good mutimeter tutorial


Also, as a habit, I replace all of the glass tubed fuses on my bike yearly, as they can fail, but look good. Current surges,vibration, and age affect these fuses. They are AGX in size, and most auto parts stores, and boating supply places can get them for you.

I will start there

Thanks

If no power at the run/stop switch, and the solder joint is good, open up the headlight housing, looking for corroded or disconnected wires. How old's the ignition switch? they do wear out, especially from vibration & if you had many keys on a ring with the ignition key. This has caused premature wearing or ignition switches on cars too.

Checked yellow red wire in right handle switch. No power.

I checked resistance from bullet connectors to switch and both wires were good.brown and yellow red.
I need to check something. When I started plugging stuff in, there were a bunch of brown wires. Maybe I have those wrong.
Thanks
Aaron

Figured it out.

Guess you have to have light switch on to send power to the two 10 amp fuses.

Got it ready to start. Got power to coils, only thongs left are minor.
High beam light comes on when I turn on lights.
Rear tail light don't work. Think it's the bulb. I have ohm tested all the circuits to that. Has to bethe bulb.
I'm sure I'll find more as I get it goin.
Thanks for the help.
Aaron

It's normal for either the high or low beam headlight to come on when the ignition switch is on. Many riders have either added a on off switch for this circuit, or wired in a relay to turn on the headlight after the engine has started. If you can find "Loudhvx", a forum member, he might be able to make up a diagram for your bike's headlight.