Ignition fuse

www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/39037...reg-rectifier#390375
www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/38873...ystem-current#389050
Have fun!

Had achance today to dig deeper into my ignition fuse problem. Finally was able to get the battery frame out to get at reg/rectifier. What a dog of a job!!!!! The repair manual says rotate the battery frame 90 degrees and pull out the top. no way!!! Had to take everything off mounted to the frame before you could rotate it at all (ie. I C igniter, reserve lighting, directional return, reg rectifier etc.) Hope I can get it all back together. Still have not found any burned wires or shorts. At least I'll be able to clean all the connections with contact cleaner; before putting back together. Next step I assume will be to try testing reg/rectifier? the only thing I have noticed so far is on the fuse panel the clip that holds the fuse there appears to be a minor splash of solder (very faint) nothing else. no melted wiring or damaged bakelite. Wish someone made a replacement fuse panel that won't require major rewiring. I'd replace it just to be sure. The only possibilities I see for fuse problem so far are a bad rect/reg or a bad fuse panel. All other wiring appears fine. Will update as the plot thickens. Thanks again for replies so far. Much appreciated.

Had to go back and test rectifier (being a dog with a bone today). According to the repair manual; the rectifier should test infinite resistance in one direction and about 1/3 of scale in the other direction. This is exactly what I found;therefore rectifier should be O.K. Must be something flukey with the fuse box????

I'd start geeting the parts for a replacement fuse block using ATC, Or ATO "Blade Fuses" like most cars are using now. Some auto parts stores are carrying the new fuse holders with 6 circuits.

You'll need new wires(probably), the right amp size fuses,the terminals to fit the new fuse holder, and where to mount/install it. Some Kawasaki older style "Glass Tubed" fuse holders may have internal electrical jumpering, or buss bars. Open up the back, if possible, and see if your's does(most do).

The good,bad, and ugly electrical crimpers(what should and should't be used):
www.pbase.com/image/93309736

Well finally an end to the feasco. Have replaced the fuse box appears to have been the problem. fuses no longer get hot. Thanks again to all who commented and helped guide me through the problem.