Ignition fuse

Intermittantly every couple weeks my 81 KZ1000Ltd blows an ignition fuse. Any thoughts on where to start the investigation would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

I had an -77 kz650 B1 that did the same thing and it was a bad diode in the rectifier that caused it.
It didn´t burn the glassfuse, just made it so hot so the soldering melted.

Go here and see if they have a rectifier/regulator for your bike: www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com

Exactly what happened; it got hot and solder melted!!! Is there a way to test retectifier? How hard is it to relace rectifier? Thanks again for responding.

I'd think disconnect the wiring, and then two mounting bolts to remove the regulator/rectifier. Depending on what model and year of 650, you may have single phase, three phase, or the excited field charging system. On some bikes, the regulator/rectifier may be mounted beneath the battery, so follow the wiring from the alternator, to the reg/rect.

First of all, exuse me for my bad english. I`m from Sweden and just tryin´to contribute.
Early KZ650 had 3 phase stator with separate rectifier and regulator.
It was some years ago and it is possible to measure some difference between the diods but i can´t remember how i did it.
Maybe someone else can help you explain how to do it.
I don´t think it´s reparable.
Your KZ1000 has a combined rect/regulator.

The problem is really simple. You are building heat do to resistance at the Fuse Clips in the Fuse Panel. You should replace the Fuse Panel. Recommend changing from the old AGX style of Fuse Panel to a new ATO/ ATC style of fuse panel. Replace any wire that has heat damage.
there is a wiring diagram for your model bike in "File Base". www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/260-z1000k1

Got a chance to look into ignition fuse problems today; so I thought I would update post. A rectifier/regulator for my KZ1000 appears to be about $100. Before spending that much I thought it might be a good idea to confirm that it is bad. I had the bike running and checked fuse while running. It got too hot to touch in about 15 seconds. I put a volt meter across fuse motor off 12 volts; motor running @ about 3,000 rpm 15 volts.( don't know how accurate the cheap meter is). I thought if the fuse only got hot with motor running it would confirm bad rect /reg. Unfortunately when I turned the key to on position the fuse still gets hot in about 15 seconds; proving nothing. Have not found any burned wires yet or shorts. Have confirmed rect/reg is mounted underside of battery mount. Will update when I figure out anything else.

kfs wrote: Got a chance to look into ignition fuse problems today; so I thought I would update post. A rectifier/regulator for my KZ1000 appears to be about $100. Before spending that much I thought it might be a good idea to confirm that it is bad. I had the bike running and checked fuse while running. It got too hot to touch in about 15 seconds. I put a volt meter across fuse motor off 12 volts; motor running @ about 3,000 rpm 15 volts.( don't know how accurate the cheap meter is). I thought if the fuse only got hot with motor running it would confirm bad rect /reg. Unfortunately when I turned the key to on position the fuse still gets hot in about 15 seconds; proving nothing. Have not found any burned wires yet or shorts. Have confirmed rect/reg is mounted underside of battery mount. Will update when I figure out anything else.

Why not simply run the diagnostic tests on the rectifier / regulator to determine if there are any problems there? Do you have a Kawasaki Service Manual? Ed

kfs wrote: Got a chance to look into ignition fuse problems today; so I thought I would update post. A rectifier/regulator for my KZ1000 appears to be about $100. Before spending that much I thought it might be a good idea to confirm that it is bad. I had the bike running and checked fuse while running. It got too hot to touch in about 15 seconds. I put a volt meter across fuse motor off 12 volts; motor running @ about 3,000 rpm 15 volts.( don't know how accurate the cheap meter is). I thought if the fuse only got hot with motor running it would confirm bad rect /reg. Unfortunately when I turned the key to on position the fuse still gets hot in about 15 seconds; proving nothing. Have not found any burned wires yet or shorts. Have confirmed rect/reg is mounted underside of battery mount. Will update when I figure out anything else.

Ok problem with thr high charging voltage is a simple fix. You have a 6 wire Regulator/ Rectifier. On the plug, you will see a Brown Wire. This Brown wire is the Voltage Sense wire for correct charging. It comes through the ignition switch. You have Got a Voltage Drop between Battery Voltage and this Brown wire. So the R/R just thinks the battery is low on volts, and makes up the difference.
So what you need to do is make the Voltage at this R/R connector nearly the same as what the battery is for it to charge correctly.
Highly doubt anything else is wrong with the charging system components.
I did a write up on this Brown wire a couple of years back.

Yes I have a service manual. Testing Reg/Rect Seemed to involve applying 12 & 24 volts. don't know how I would apply 24 volts. Not totally sure I followed completely what was involved.

How would I access that write up. I,m familiar with that brown wire; I had to repair ignition switch about 2 yrs. ago. What your saying is that the 15 volts I read at fuse while running is too high? I was suprised by the way to see only 1 Combination lead coming from fuse box. I expected individual leads for each fuse. But nothing appeared burned.