Dyna S problems with different coil

Hey guys, I need some help.

76 Z1 900, motor has some work done, blah blah

Previous owner converted to DYNA S pickup and coils. The pickup/sensor is the one with two pickups and the little magnet on the crank. No moving parts.

The coils got damaged, so I did what I had done before to a couple of other bikes (including my old KZ1000 shaftie)
I wired in a Dodge Neon coil. Fired up, was only running on two cylinders. Shut off, swapped out to another Dodge Neon coil, Fired back up, same thing. Had ANOTHER Dodge Neon coil, fire up, same thing. Was hittin on 1/4, but nothing on 2/3. So I came inside to eat, went back out, and now have NO spark.

I have a brand new gel battery at 180 cca. New cables, and I did a GSXR full suspension swap on this thing, so I had the entire harness apart and rewire job for my triples/hand controls. I am 99% certain I got everything right with that.

Funny thing though. Whenever I am trying a new electrical system, I have a test light hooked up to the battery, just to see if there is some excessive "dimming" whenever I try things, just to see if there is a short somewhere before it actually kills something. I noticed when I would plug the NEON coils in, the light would dim a good bit. Then I noticed that if I took the crank pickup plate out, the light would be fine until I grounded it. I stripped the harness back down and everything was how it's supposed to be. ALmost like it was drawing a bunch or shorting out.

It doesn't do that now, though.... (the light dimmming thing). THere was NO burning smells, no smoke, no nothing. The pickups on the DYNA don't look swelled, cracked, etc. They look new.

I have a feeling that the DYNA S doesn't like just "any ol coils" hooked up to it, and I fried it. Say it ain't so.

thanks all

The Dyna S is rated for 3-ohm coils or higher. The Neon coils are likely .5 ohm to 1 ohm. You were running 3 times more amps than the Dyna S is rated to handle. I'm surprised it lasted that long.

Also, there is no dwell control on the Dyna S. It's just max-dwell all the time, even if the crank is not turning. The Neon cois are designed for a controlled dwell and/or current limited driver. Running them at full current for more than a second or two can damage the coils too.

You need 3 ohm coils, or you need to get two 2.5-ohm, 100 watt resistors to limit the current (one resistor in series per coil).

Yup, agree with loud. I was running the gray 2.2 ohm dyna coils as a factory replacement to my stock coils and when I upgraded to the dyna s system I spoke with the folks at dyna about using the gray coils. They said absolutely not, the dyna s needs the 3.0 ohm green coils. 3.0 ohm minimum I believe, I think the rule is you can go bigger but never smaller.

So an update on the problem I created......
I got a set of BLUE dyna coils, that ohm out at 4.7 cold. Installed them and cranked but still no start. NO SPARK.

The Dyna pickup gets "warm" and I also noticed the coils were getting warm. This was over the period of about 10 minutes with the key on and cranking, looking for other problems (even though I know what the problem is, lol), cranking a little more, checking my connections, etc.

So in about 10 minutes of powered up but NOT RUNNING, the stuff got warm. Not hot, but warm to the touch. Is this normal?

ALso, I think I probably cant check anything with the pickup, but I put a test light TO POSITIVE on the signal wires from the pickup and both stay grounded constantly. SO my signal wires from the pickup are steady grounded, key on, key off, cranking, doesn't matter. Is this because I cant check it with a normal testlight, or is this confirming it is toasted? I have noid lights, but they are at my work.

Is there anything else I can check before I buy another DYNA S ????

Thanks all

Sounds like it let the smoke out.
Go to Dyna's Site and download there test, www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support...Manuals/DynaSTSG.pdf

Has secondary loop been ohm-tested?

Perhaps a faulty connection in coil output tower due to incorrect attachment of the metal clip onto end of the plug wire.

Would assure integrity of the splice (or terminal) where Dyna-S's red wire is supposedly receiving battery voltage.


Good Fortune!

:blink:

Brand new Green 3 ohm coil measurements with my FLUKE meter...

* Not connected to spark plug wires, just the coils them selves.
Primary: 2.8 - 2.9 ohms
Secondary: 13.22 K ohms (k = thousands)

Secondaries with suppression wires and plug boots 29.02 K ohms

Insure it's wired correctly




Follow the link for the static alignments thus insuring your pickups are good.

Dyna S Static Testing...




Insure rotor/crank magnet is positioned correctly @ 1/4 TDC....

high toned son of a bitch wrote: ...BLUE dyna coils, that ohm out at 4.7... NO SPARK...Dyna pickup gets "warm"..coils were getting warm...over the period of about 10 minutes with the key on...put a test light TO POSITIVE on the signal wires from the pickup and both stay grounded constantly. SO my signal wires from the pickup are steady grounded, key on, key off, cranking, doesn't matter...anything else I can check before I buy another DYNA S....

As probably already known --

The ignition coil's primary winding is grounded and ungrounded through the pick-up module.

Given a functional and properly wired ignition coil that's receiving sufficient battery voltage, the coil should fire whenever its primary winding becomes ungrounded.

When the magnet that's embedded in the rotor passes by the pick-up module, it's supposed to interrupt the ground of the ignition coil's primary winding through the pick-up module to the engine case. Thus, "signaling" the coil to fire.

With ignition ON, hand-turning the crankshaft (using the 17mm fake nut provided -- not the 13mm bolt head) should produce plug spark when the embedded magnet passes the pick-up.

Good Fortune!

Old Man Rock wrote: :blink:

Brand new Green 3 ohm coil measurements with my FLUKE meter...

* Not connected to spark plug wires, just the coils them selves.
Primary: 2.8 - 2.9 ohms
Secondary: 13.22 K ohms (k = thousands)

Secondaries with suppression wires and plug boots 29.02 K ohms

Insure it's wired correctly

Attachment DynaSBenchTest.JPG not found

Follow the link for the static alignments thus insuring your pickups are good.

Dyna S Static Testing...

Insure rotor/crank magnet is positioned correctly @ 1/4 TDC....

This is a great write up OMR, all except the Scotch Lock. Way better to do a correct connection. Either with the correct Bullet Connector to the Factory Female, or a Solder and Heat Shrink connection.

It's mentioned in the diagram, but perhaps important enough to again note in the photo.



Many stock wiring harnesses include unused female plugs for supplying switched-power to accessories, which suffice nicely for Dyna-S installations.

Such accessory plugs may be located under a side cover, or under the fuel tank, or inside the headlight shell. And are usually shown on the bike's wiring diagram.

KZr's FILEBASE includes many wiring diagrams for specific models.

Good Fortune!

well an update,

it's fried. I got a set of Dyna coils and nothing, so I went through the tests you guys gave me (thank you) and it's not switching when the magnet rolls around. So i have ordered one and will use the proper coils this time. Lesson learned. Thanks for all the help guys!!!

high toned son of a bitch wrote: well an update,

it's fried. I got a set of Dyna coils and nothing, so I went through the tests you guys gave me (thank you) and it's not switching when the magnet rolls around. So i have ordered one and will use the proper coils this time. Lesson learned. Thanks for all the help guys!!!

Take it that your lesson learned, and posted here on KZR, will help others from the same mistake.
So thanks for posting here. Everyone makes mistakes, but a smart person learns from them.