ignition switch or test suggestions

ok simple plug everything in works fine. changed turn signal stems everything works great push all the wiring up in the headlight now now power nothing no lights just dead

pulll everything out no change still dead double check battery 12volts check all fuses good
what are the outside chances the switch took a dump?

have power to white wire turn switch on no power check continuity on off no continuity
switch on continuity between white and green any help greatly appreciated

I had similar problems and did what MFolks suggested, to spray electrical contact cleaner in keyhole and turn key back off and on and if that did not work, it was time to get a new switch, my thread is ignition switch. Lucky me it woorked for me, I hope it works for you too.

when I put a test light on it I get no reaction if i use my multimetrer i get 12.8v DC
at both white whires turn the switch on no voltage anywhere

tried another switch (not sure its a good one) same reaction need some input
is there a way to use a jumper wire in the connector to eliminate the switch
for test purpoeses it was fine until stuffing everythin in to put headlight bulb in

i'm not convinced its the switch It's too coincidental.

could it possibly be in left hand switch control it was a little hinky feeling when
testing the turn signals and had to tighen a little could left hand control effect switch?

i guess throwin a 20.00 switch at it wont hurt but if anyone knows the actual
wiriin schematic for the switch i would love to figure out what each pole on the switch is supposed to vontrol or why I have 12.7-13. volts at the 2 white pins in the connector and it wont power a test light

any electrical gurus feel like splainin it to me it would greatly be appreciated

If not already done, would check the wiring diagram in KZr's FILEBASE, which also includes a separate box showing the "Ignition Switch Connections."

www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/269-z1000a2a

Good Fortune!

If you measure voltage, it is different to measuring current. So even though you have 12v when no load is on the circuit, when the test light is applied you now have a load. So voltage may drop to nothing if you have bad connection. Now this assumes your test light works, and has good ground connection. Go back and test at the Main Fuse, get it to where you test light lights up on each side of the fuse, on the Metal Clips. Could be a bad fuse.
If you look at the wiring diagram, you will see the Ignition Switch chart on the bottom of the diagram. It shows which wires make contact when the switch is turned to its different positions. You can unplug the switch and take a jumper to make the connection as would the switch. Then you will know right away if it is or isn't the switch.
The switch can be disassembled, inspected, cleaned, etc.
There was a new member the other week who had a similar issue. Tried a new switch, didn't fix it, and was actually a lower voltage when On. So he measured anyway. It turned out that in the Head Light Bucket he had a loose wire, a ground I believe, he never has posted back his results.

Thanks guys just got home gonna test some grounds then keep looking

34 minutes to resolve and that included reinstalling switch headlight bucket and signals
losing and finding those tiny screws lol

understanding that having 12 volts and no current under a load had me checking grounds in the headlight bucket everything checked good so I rechecked my fuses all good noticed slight play
in the fuse box and waahlaah loose wire tightened everything up and good to go

thanks guys would've stuck with the fluke bad switch without your input suprising to see
it was something I hadn't touched since last year

Loose and bad connections are usually the problem. Glad you sorted it out without dumping needless $$$$$$$