ignition key switch

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18 May 2013 09:36 #588047 by mopguy
ignition key switch was created by mopguy
While working on my carburetors and tessting them out, my ignition key switch would work and then next time I turned key nothing worked, I thought maybe I blew a fuse, but they seem okay. Now the ignition key wont work anymore but if you play with it for a while she might work again and then wont work again.Is this a sign I need a new ignition key switch or is it a short or bad ground? Thanks for your input.

I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Ltd. I bought new. I recently managed to get it out of my garage after 28 years and put it on the road again (2010). I feel like a kid all over again. Since I have acquired 3 78 KZ1000 Ltd, 1 1981 KZ1000 Ltd, and another 1980 KZ750 Ltd. Love the LTD's.

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18 May 2013 15:39 #588086 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic ignition key switch
You can try some plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(I like the brand, De-Oxit) sprayed through the key slot & turn the key off and on several times. If no luck, it's time to replace the ignition switch. I'd contact www.z1enterprises.com and hear what they say. www.deoxit.com is the website for the cleaner/preservative.

Your bike's ignition switch is subjected to a lot of vibration, and if you have the habit of carrying the key on a ring with other keys, the weight may have increased the wear on the internal electrical contacts.

Never use WD-40 on motorcycle electrical contacts,connectors, or switches, as over time it becomes a nonconductor, more like insulation.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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18 May 2013 21:45 #588107 by mopguy
Replied by mopguy on topic ignition key switch
MF Folks thankyou for your advice, ignition is working again, now if I could get the carburetors to work properly, man I had no idea how difficult it is to have these carbs working properly, I must have cleaned them God only knows how many times. I put a Keysters new kit, did the clear tube test and they are just below line, two turns on idle mix, and she wont start unless I spray some quick start, and then she idles at 1000 rpm, but when I give throtle she seems to want to die. I noticed my float needle has no clip that attaches to float, it has a rod that goes up and down, is that okay or am I missing them.

I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Ltd. I bought new. I recently managed to get it out of my garage after 28 years and put it on the road again (2010). I feel like a kid all over again. Since I have acquired 3 78 KZ1000 Ltd, 1 1981 KZ1000 Ltd, and another 1980 KZ750 Ltd. Love the LTD's.

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22 May 2013 01:20 #588679 by Spectre1982
Replied by Spectre1982 on topic ignition key switch
I attached a picture to this post. Are you talking about the clip where the black arrow is? I'm pretty sure you need that. It loops over the tab on the float. When the fuel level drops, it pulls the float needle down and allows fuel into the bowl.

1982 Kawasaki KZ750 Spectre

1978 Kawasaki KZ200

1985 Yamaha XV1000 Virago



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22 May 2013 10:18 #588719 by mopguy
Replied by mopguy on topic ignition key switch
Yes, I dont have any of those clips on my float needles and was wondering if I need them in order for the float to work, they did not come in the carb rebiuld kit.

I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Ltd. I bought new. I recently managed to get it out of my garage after 28 years and put it on the road again (2010). I feel like a kid all over again. Since I have acquired 3 78 KZ1000 Ltd, 1 1981 KZ1000 Ltd, and another 1980 KZ750 Ltd. Love the LTD's.

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