Charging issue?

Hey men, my KZ1100-A2 (1982 J-model) has a GPS unit velcro-mounted at the handlebar, and it shows the battery voltage when the engine is running, or turned off.
I have to charge the battery every couple days (or so) so the bike will start.
When cruising, I get a reading of around 13Volts, until the engine idles down when stopped at a light. Then it reads 10.2V to 11.4Volts and fluctuates back up when revved up or I'm moving again. If I turn off the key, then it barely cranks over on the next start try.
I tried two other voltage regulators to see what the Voltage readings would be. All read same voltage 10.2V to 11.4V at idle after running it without having a charge for a couple days.
If the key is turned off, then the reading goes back up to 12.5+Volts. But when the key is turned to the on position, the reading immediately drops.

I am definitely electrically challenged, so if someone has an idea what is going on, please make a suggestion.
Could I be dealing with a bad battery, even if new last September?

Could be a bad battery but seems like it should be charging more than that at idle. Does your light dim at idle and does it do the same thing w the gps unplugged? Only reason I ask is because ur adding another draw that draws even after engine is off

jonarmstrong
At idle, the headlight and turn signals dim...less-so for a time after being removed from the battery charger. They dim a little when the brake levers are pressed, regardless of the voltage reading. But brighten when giving it throttle.
The GPS unit is an old Lowrance Global Nav Sport, w/positive hooked up to the accessory 10A fused wire, and negative to a ground bolt. The bike was originally set up with the Vetter system, but all that crap went away...right away.

I'll disconnect the GPS for a couple days and see what effect it has.

Thanks

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s ,GPz1100’s
And possibly the 750’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!! The Alternator produces a three(3) phase A.C. power that is changed to D.C. by the regulator/rectifier, powering the motorcycles electrical system.



7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced. Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were reported to be phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place. Check only with the engine off !!

9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty. Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).

11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.


www.electrosport.com has a nice troubleshooting page to help you diagnose your problem

MFolks
I don't have an electric meter, and wouldn't know how to use it if I did.
Somehow things to do with electricity make my wires get tangled. Mental blockage, or something...just thinking about it :ohmy:
Probably smart for me to have an intelligent person look at it.

Thank you!

A helpful video on multimeter use: The Best Multimeter Tutorial

"Somehow things to do with electricity make my wires get tangled. Mental blockage, or something...just thinking about it Probably smart for me to have an intelligent person look at it."

Then perfect time to learn....

KZ Electrical theory explained for the non technical minded....

KZ Electrical Theory Explained....

Since you already swapped reg/rec a couple times, the next step is to ohm out the 3 yellow wires at the reg rec, (while disconnected from the reg/rec). This will ohm out your stator to see if possibly one of the wires is broke. You will need an ohm meter for that.

Electrical troubleshooting is not difficult, just follow logical thinking, and use test procedures either in a manual, or some other means of checking.No one is born a troubleshooter, we all had to learn some time....

Y'all,

Thanks for the encouragement, but I am getting old(er)... :pinch:

Aren't we all?!!

Yes,indeed.One side of the stator is no good.Replace it now before you ruin the battery also.It's an easy job,but they Thread-Locked the bolts to the cover,and you gotta heat them up a bit to break the sealant.Been there,done that.