Dyna static timing

Hi, can anyone confirm. To set STATIC timimng for Dyna ignition, is it set at the fully advanced mark? , not the F (firing mark). Also noticed that when setting up, I could not see the fully advanced mark ( hence the question above) and some guys suggested slotting the Dyna backplate to allow it to rotate to see the fully advanced mark.I found that by flipping the plate over it lined up ok without elongating the slots ( ie; remove the pickups by unscrewing the tiny allen screws, flip the plate over and screw them back on ensuring you do not mix up 1&4 with the 2&3 cylinder pickup) dont know if someone in the Dyna factory screwed up?? when assembling it.

Another question is that I have had one of my plugs go faulty since installing Dyna ignition, I have the standard Taylor leads/plug caps with Dyna Green 3 ohm coils, do I need any resistor in the circuit? I had NGK plug caps ( think these have some resitance inbuilt??) with standard coils and points previously and had no problems.Or is it just coincedance this plug has gone faulty. They were/are all brand new NGKB8ES fitted.

Any help would be gratefully received, thanks.

You can set the timing to the fully advanced mark, but only if you manually hold the advancer in the fully-advanced position.

If you are not holding the advancer in the advanced position, then you use the F mark.

What do you mean by, holding the advancer in the fully advanced position? I have the Dyna plate fitted ( ie: where the pickups/rotor are )and turning the crank with a spanner clockwise whilst looking through the hole on the plate, I am using a multimeter to time it aligning with the fully advanced mark ( to the right of the F mark).Should I be using the F mark instead? Not sure how I would hold the advancer at the fully advanced position in this case? other than running the engine to get the bob weights to move as per you do when using a strobe.

With a Kawasaki ignition rotor, you can just grab the iron rotor slug and rotate it by hand. It should move a few degrees then stop. This will move the bob weights outward. When you let go, it all snaps back to idle position.

With the Dyna S it's more difficult because the rotor is smooth, but it's still possible.

Some people do it this way because the timing at full advance is more important than the timing at idle. This is especially true in cases where the rubber stops for the bob-weights are missing. In that case it's very important to time the ignition at full-advance, and not at idle. With the stops missing there is too much movement. This would lead to over-advanced ignition at high RPMs if the idle is set to F.

If you are not touching the rotor, then you should be using the F mark, same as if you were timing it with points.

kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/522723-in...-dyna-s-on-my-kz1000

kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/449-dy...-installation-by-omr

Ah, ok, light bulb moment!!!!

This explains the part in the Dyna instructions under Timing Procedure section ( which are as clear as mud if really dont understand the "fully adavanced position", which, with many thanks to you, I now do)

" All timing adjustments should be made using the advanced timing marks which are approximately 1/2 inch to the right of the F marks on the advance assembly"

and the following part

" 2) Turn ignition switch on. While holding the rotor in the fully advanced position (clockwise)....."

Many thanks for your help, heading out to the garage now to hopefully get my Zed running sweetly.

Many thanks, the link you provided to the info from omr adds to the brilliant reply from loudhvx, I now understand the fully advanced position part and how to statically setup my dyna ignition.

Cheers guys.