Ignition Timing Specs 1980 KZ1000 B4......HELP

OK....replaced my igniter box with a Dyna S. Static timed and got it started. Using a timing light while idling I line up on the "F " and at 3400 RPM I line up in the middle of the two timing marks that I static timed the ignition to. Engine runs, but not as good as it did when it had the igniter box on it....well most of the time (wires coming out of the bottom of igniter box were loose, and any little bump or vibration would cause the engine to run like crap, so I bought a Dyna) Somewhere I've read timing specs of 20 dgrees BTDC @ 1450 RPM to 40 degrees BTDC @ 2350 RPM. Are these specs correct ? Anyone have the correct specs, if these aren't the correct ones and a photo of what the correct specs would look like in reference to the timing mark ? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Todd

F mark may appear differently among advancer models.




At idle rpm, assure the F MARK is aligning, not the letter "F."



Good Fortune!

Appreciate the info Patton. Bought a $16 timing light from Harbor Freight and finished up the dynamic timing, bike runs great, probably the best since I resurrected it. Debating now if I really need to upgrade the coils to Accels or try the MOD where you supply a new/cleaner 12 volt supply to the coils via an automotive relay. Timing is on the mark, carbs adjusted & sync'd, but still getting sooty plugs. Any thoughts ??

Would determine whether voltage being actually received at the coil primary terminal is nearly equivalent to the voltage measured between the battery posts. with a known good, properly serviced and fully charged battery having clean, snug terminal connections onto the posts, and a good ground connection where the negative battery cable attaches to the rear of the engine.

If need be, have the battery separately load-tested to assure its performance potential.
Best load test is after servicing and charging overnight.

With a brand new NGKB8ES spark plug, would test spark quality by viewing a fat blue spark (not a weak orange spark).

Where the spark quality is known to be sufficient, but the plug remains sooty, such result may be produced by an overly rich fuel mixture, or may be produced by insufficient compression.
Would perform both wet and dry compression tests.
Would assure valve clearances are within specs.

If compression remains low, would perform a leak-down test to help identify where compression is being lost.

Good Fortune!