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Now it's the stator? maybe?
- Reduxalicious
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So SHORT Version
-Was blowing main fuse
-Replaced Regulator no longer blowing fuses
-Battery's wont hold charge.
-I think it's the stator
Thanks guys.
77 KZ1000 LTD
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Reduxalicious
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77 KZ1000 LTD
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- 650ed
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www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/Products.html
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- MFolks
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And possibly the 750’s).
There are two ways to check the stator output; first by having the engine running, the second by using a multimeter to ohm check the stator windings.
To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:
1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.
2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.
3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.
4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.
5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.
6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!! The Alternator produces a three(3) phase A.C. power that is changed to D.C. by the regulator/rectifier, powering the motorcycles electrical system.
7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced. Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were reported to be phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.
8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place. Check only with the engine off !!
9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty. Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.
10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).
11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- Reduxalicious
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650ed wrote: Looking at the parts diagram on Kawasaki.com it looks like the '77 KZ1000 LTD has a separate rectifier. Before getting into the stator I would test the rectifier per the FSM. My '77 KZ650 has a separate rectifier, and last summer when the battery stopped charging the rectifier test showed a bad diode. I replaced it with one from Oregon Motorcycle Parts (see link) and the charging system now works well within spec. Ed
www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/Products.html
Hm, Yes-- It show's that in my shop Manual to, It shows it on the right side of the bike but..
I have no clue where it would be? I see nothing that looks like the Rectifier in the Manual, It says the white Connector is the Rect, but it appears to go to..1930's style Rect ha, Does anyone know if the Regulator/Rectifier from Z1, will mount up here?
Man the more and more I dig into the Electrical system on this bike, The more I realize the last two owners did strange things to it.
77 KZ1000 LTD
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- MFolks
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1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- Reduxalicious
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MFolks wrote: On some Kawasaki's, the rectifier/regulator may be mounted below the battery compartment. If possible, trace back from the stator output wiring, as it should go directly to the rectifier/regulator.
I found out that plate is Indeed the Rectifier, I'm going to make some calls around tomorrow to see if the Regulator/Rectifier unit Z1 sells will mount up there, or If I just have to buy a new Dual Plug unit.
77 KZ1000 LTD
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- Old Man Rock
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1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- Reduxalicious
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I realized what I did wrong, I got a Regulator/Rectifier from Z1, Replaced my regulator but forgot to disconnect the current Rectifier , As soon as the rain clears up I'll get on that and see if that fixes things up. Thanks for all the help everyone.
77 KZ1000 LTD
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- MFolks
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1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- pete greek1
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1980 LTD 1000..,1976 LTD 900, have the 1000&900 now. the rest are previous= 1978 KZ 650 B.., 1980 Yamaha XT 500..,1978 Yamaha DT 400.., 1977 Yamaha yz 80..,Honda trail ct 70.., Honda QA 50...5-1/2 hp brigs & straton CAT chopper mini bike...3-1/2 hp mini bike (WHEN GAS WAS ABOUT 45 CENTS A GALLON)!!!!
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