Need opinion on Wiring Diagram

Ok, I have torn out the wiring harness this winter on my 92 KZ1000p. My hopes are to clean up the wiring mess with something neater. Couple things to note before checking out my wiring diagram I drew up.

1. I am wanting to lose the Engine Run Switch - so that is why you won't find it. Just going to operate off the ignition key for power.
2. I am cleaning up the handlebards so the Starter Button is being moved to the left side with only the Turn Signal Switch.
3. On the right side will be the Headlight Switch.

Let me know if this will work or am I wasting my time on trying to eliminate the Engine Run Switch?

I can't get my diagram to post, will work later on getting it in here. Sorry.

If you need it, here's the wiring diagram from Kawasaki for the police bike:
www.cyclepsycho.com/kz1000p/kz1000p.html

My feeling is to leave the run/stop switch in the circuit, as it's a safety, in case you need to kill the engine like right now.

MFolks wrote: If you need it, here's the wiring diagram from Kawasaki for the police bike:
www.cyclepsycho.com/kz1000p/kz1000p.html

My feeling is to leave the run/stop switch in the circuit, as it's a safety, in case you need to kill the engine like right now.

I'd keep it too; you never know when you might need it. Maybe it could be changed to something like the button switch in the pic below if the stock switch looks too big...

So you think I'd be better off to wire the Headlight to come on with the Ignition or Engine Run Switch. I am losing one or the other Unless I hide a toggle somewhere on the bike for the headlight.

Here is my wiring diagram without the Engine Run Switch. MFolks I used the diagram you sent me last year to come up with this, losing all the police wiring that I didn't need.

Try to make sure all of the splices, are the kind that's covered in heatshrink tubing, they resist moisture far better than tape does. Anytime on the wiring diagram, a wire crosses another, and a dot is shown, that's a splice area.

Some heatshrink splices and wire terminals:


(Ultimate Performance Heatshrink Terminals)



(Butt Connectors vs. Bullet Connectors)



(Heatshrink Terminal Installation)



(Heatshrinkable Crimpable Terminals)

Thanks for the help. I actually drew my diagram again and this time have the headlight coming on when I turn the iginition key. I also have wired in the Engine Stop button on the diagram. No time to see if it all works.

One question for those who may know. Is the starter lock out switch where the wire plugs into the clutch lever? That is the only place I can figure it to go and do I really need to have it?

It's a safety device the Kawasaki engineers came up for the 80's bikes, to prevent starting the engine when in gear. If you bypass it, remember, as the bike could fly/run off the sidestand if it's in gear, the key on and someone pushes the start button(depends on the tune of the engine, if it would start, but would roll off the sidestand regardless).

For a stronger starter motor, read this:

Using A Honda Starter In A Kawasaki

Buda from the www.kzrider.com forum wrote:

Will not turn the engine over....10.25 10 1 comp 1170 cc......took starter out and ran it with a battery....the starter spins strong but starts to squeal after a second.....also the shaft has a lot of play side to side. Bad starter I’m guessing What do you guys think?

Took the starter apart.....the bushing on the drive end is cracked

MFolks Wrote:
For a stronger starter motor, read this:

Using a Honda Mitsuba SM-220 Starter in the Kz (copied from the KZ rider website)

The CB F's used 2 different starters. Look for the one marked .8kw. They also have one that is .7kw. This owner noticed a difference when he installed his. He read that you can remove the outer housing, and rotate it. this will re-align the outer power terminal, to a better location. if you don’t do this, you will need to grind some metal from the chain cover to gain clearance. Also install a heavier gauge wire to the starter , I’d recommend 6 AWG(American Wire Gauge) welding cable with the correct terminal ends to match the treaded studs for the solenoid and starter motor. Don’t forget the cable from the battery to the solenoid.

The stock KZ starter is .6kw in size

www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=HS-29 (Mitsuba SM-220)

Buda Wrote:
Thanks MFolks, Just ordered the rebuild kit before I read your post....If that doesn't work out I'll give the Honda starter a shot.

Got a the Honda starter MFolks recommended (SM 220 12 volt 0.8 KW) on ebay...hell of a difference.....Turns over like the plugs are missing....I'm sure the new battery doesn't hurt, but its a hell of a difference.

Here is a better version of my diagram I came up with. I have the headlight hard wired to always be on. I have taken all of the police wiring out of it. So I think I have it figured out now. Started running wire today and will work more tomorrow on it with hopefully a test start and check to see if my battery is charging.

I do have one question. I ran the white wire from the battery to the Ignition. Tested the wires coming out of the iginition for juice. The Brown and Yellow were hot at like 13.4 volts. The Blue and Red wires did not have any power. Is this a bad ignition switch? I thought those 2 wires were hot all the time.

MtStateMike wrote: Here is a better version of my diagram I came up with. I have the headlight hard wired to always be on. I have taken all of the police wiring out of it. So I think I have it figured out now. Started running wire today and will work more tomorrow on it with hopefully a test start and check to see if my battery is charging.

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Your diagram is not very readable as posted. Hard to make out the Lettering for each component. Also the size is small, I've opened it in a photo viewer to try and see it better. Also Paint to re-size it. Maybe go back and clean it up a bit, so the Text comes out better.