Fuse keep's blowing

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21 Jan 2013 15:42 #568519 by Reduxalicious
Fuse keep's blowing was created by Reduxalicious
Hey guys, Long time Forum reader first time poster. I have a 77 KZ1000 and it seem's I have a new occurring Electrical Issue, Allow me to tell you what the issue was before this current issue started. About a Month ago my bike would bog down at 5K RPM's and stop firing on all cylinders, I replaced the Coils and that seemed to do the trick--Now a month later my bike keep's popping 20 AMP fuses, ONLY after the bike is at running temperature, When she's cold no issues but as soon as the bike is warm it pops at random--Once at a stop but MOSTLY when under acceleration :dry: --Today I changed the fuse and turned the key back on, it blew the fuse right away, changed the Fuse a second time and it seemed to be fine but it popped again on my ride just around the neighborhood. Any suggestion on where to start looking? I've had the bike apart and looked for any frayed wires in the harness and in the handle-switches but everything seems fine. Thanks!

77 KZ1000 LTD

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21 Jan 2013 15:55 #568522 by 531blackbanshee
Replied by 531blackbanshee on topic Fuse keep's blowing
check your grounds at the engine.

i had intermittent fuse blowing issues and had to replace my ground cable from the battery to the engine.because it cracked the lug on the end.ever since i replaced the ground cable i haven't blown any more fuses.

leon

skiatook,oklahoma 1980 z1r,1978 kz 1000 z1r x 3,
1976 kz 900 x 3
i make what i can,and save the rest!

billybiltit.blogspot.com/

www.kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/325862-triple-tree-custom-work

kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/294594-frame-bracing?limitstart=0
The following user(s) said Thank You: wireman

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21 Jan 2013 15:58 #568523 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic Fuse keep's blowing
Use this method of Pattons to locate the problem:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!


Here is the most basic method I know(Taken from www.kzrider.com by member Patton)

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one. Just 1, not both!

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go off/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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21 Jan 2013 20:03 #568557 by 650ed
Replied by 650ed on topic Fuse keep's blowing
What coils did you install? If they are Dyna make sure the mounting bolt isn’t shorting out against the coil screw. Some guys have had this problem, so they put an insulating sleeve over the bolt (see pic). I don’t know if it can cause the fuse to blow, but it’s worth checking since you recently replaced the coils. Ed

Attachment 00000_2013-01-21.jpg not found


1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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26 Jan 2013 17:17 #569380 by Reduxalicious
Replied by Reduxalicious on topic Fuse keep's blowing
Hey guy's Thanks for all the help! Turns out I had a bad regulator :blush:, Figures you get the whole bike torn apart only to realize it was something as simple as that. ;)

77 KZ1000 LTD

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