voltmeter and charging

Hi there,

I think I have an issue with my charging system as my voltmeter needle stays on the 12 volt mark and does not go up with the engine revs. Is there an easy way to tell if it is my alternator at fault or my rectifier/regulator. Battery is brand new and was fully charged before fitting to the bike. Many thanks

Do you have a service manual? What's the year/model of the bike?

For my '79 KZ750 the procedure for testing the rectifier is:

Ohm meter in x1 range
+ meter lead to yellow reg/rect lead
- meter lead to black reg/rect lead
should read less than 20 ohms

Ohm meter in x1k range
+ meter lead to black reg/rect lead
- meter lead to yellow reg/rect lead
should read more than 100k ohms

Oh I should have asked just to be sure, you're getting 12V at the battery when the engine is off AND when the engine is running?

Topper asked the perfect question - do you have the service manual. The Kawasaki Service Manuals give detailed instructions on how to diagnose charging problems (and other types of problems). If you don't have the manual you really should get one; it will save you tons of $$$ and hours of labor. They are normally available on eBay; be sure to get the exact one for your bike's year/model. Ed

Redwitch wrote: Hi there,

I think I have an issue with my charging system as my voltmeter needle stays on the 12 volt mark and does not go up with the engine revs. Is there an easy way to tell if it is my alternator at fault or my rectifier/regulator. Battery is brand new and was fully charged before fitting to the bike. Many thanks

If not already done, would assure that the black/yellow wire from the regulator/rectifier is indeed providing a good ground for the regulator/rectifier.

And also assure integrity of the ground connection where the negative battery cable attaches to rear of the engine.

And that the battery posts and cable connections are clean and cables are snugly tightened.

Good Fortune!

Battery cables can develope internal corrosion, reducing the conductor size due to battery charging/discharging cyles, especially if the battery vent tube is close to the cables. If the cable is flexed, and feels "Crunchy", replace it. 6 AWG(American Wire Gauge) welding cable is a good substitute, and is actually larger than what came with the bike. The welding cable is very flexible, and will bend to fit tight areas.

If you can remove, or take careful measurements of the battery cables for length, most batery shops that work on electric forklifts should be able to make up new cables for you if the welding supply shop can't. Make sure the correct terminal ends are crimped or swaged on the cable ends, and ensure that all paint/rust is removed when tightening down the new cables on the bike's terminals.

You'll need:
1.Negative(Earth) battery cable to the engine(usually Black in color).

2.Positive from the + battery terminal to the starter solenoid (red in color).

3.And another Red cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.